Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

EOI

Basically, thinking of stripping my r33, there are a lot of parts, aftermarket and standard. I will list some of the major items and if anyone is interested please PM me and if I get enough interest I think ill let the memories go and start pulling it apart. The car was never completed, everything is mostly bolted on however never started or tuned as I started working a lot and the whole project went out the window. Now I'm trying to move up with my career and just don't have the time for it anymore.

I am open to offers on all parts.

rb25det s1 motor, complete minus turbo/manifold etc, compression 145-160 on all 6 cylinders - $1500

(made 194.6kw with std. turbo on 12psi with full exhaust and intercooler so very healthy)

rb25det s2 gearbox 86,000kms on it - $1500 or as a manual conversion kit $2000 (everything you need)

HKS GT2835r turbo (420hp rated, seen couple track days since rebuild made 290rwkw on another car) kit including HKS cast manifold, Greddy ext. gate, screamer pipe, dump pipe, steel braided lines, turbo intake and hot+cold side piping in lobster back stainless steel by AM Performance - $2200

AM Performance cat back exhaust system 2x2.5" in to 2x4" pipe with titanium tips - $900

VQ35 ecu with rb25 nisstune board (lets you use vct unlike RB20 ecu)- $450

Yellow Jackets coilpacks for s1 rb25 (all working, used for 1 year, fantastic coilpack, search forums) - $250

Power Enterprise 850cc side feed injectors to suit rb25 in rail, brand new - $750

ORC Single plate clutch, 409 series unsprung center, used for 6months still in good cond - $400

Greddy copy plenum kit (rb25 throttle body adapter, nipple fittings, hose fittings, hoses) brand new - $350

External fuel pump setup, 2L tank + bosch 044 with mount and all fittings + ethanol fuel hose, brand new - $350

Wlabro 550hp intank pump - $100

R33 Non-sunroof 9point cusco D1 cage, through dash with side intrusion bars and padding - $950

R33 brake setup, hubs, slotted discs, calipers, a1rm pads and adr approved braided line - $800

R33 BC BR Coilovers, used for 4000kms, like new - $900

R200 locked diff, tight as - $200

Kazama castor arms suit r33 and other models - $150

Rear camber arms unknown brand, brand new - $100

Hicas lock bar - $80

R32 genuine GTR intercooler - 150

Rb20/25 hybrid intercooler kit, core is rough but no leaks - $150

z32 afm with plug - $150

q45 afm - $80

Work VS-XX wheels, 18x10 +13 front with kumho ku36 tyres 60%, 18x12 -4 rears with bridgestone tyres 40%, not for groupies or wanna be's... need some serious guard work to fit these babies. Genuine 3 piece - $3000

And everything else that you could think of, suspension arms, lights, dash pieces, trims, looms etc etc... im sure I missed a lot of little aftermarket things but those are the major ones listed. If I go ahead with it I will list all the parts and pictures as its taken apart.

Also, clean registrable r33 shell/plates.

If youre interested in anything PM me, when I have enough interest the strip show starts.

Edited by SkyHi_33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394832-eoi-stripping-300kw-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

No std. steering wheel, ive got a momo drifting suede deep dish, and two no brand deep dish suede wheels, one black one blue.

Haha its a very nice exhaust, $1550 from memmory new and its barely been used!!!

Ps. Cant reply to pm's off the phone sorry guys, ill get to it asap!

Thanks :)

I can get pics of most of the items, the plenum is brand new. Ill wait a few days till Ive got enough interest and if there is, then Ill post another for sale thread with all the pictures of parts.

Im located in Adelaide, SA. Marion area. The shell is in primer and needs a bit of body work but its straight.

Steering wheels, I dont want to sell the momo just yet but the other two I can do for $80ea + postage, theyre brand new in the box still.

they look like this (same wheel on a mates car)

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/kfsRule_2/?action=view&current=steeringwheel.jpg

Edited by SkyHi_33

I havent got any pictures of most of the stuff atm, still deciding if I want to part it out. Have had a fair bit of interest so at this point I most likely will.

The rear arms are adjustable, and yes still got the engine loom.

As I said, Ill leave the thread up for a week or so, I've written down everyone's usernames for people interested in parts and will PM you in a few days when I figure out what to do with the car. In the meantime Ill try get a few pictures :)

Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...