Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One word, Japan.

and be prepared to spend $$$

I've got a set that I wouldn't let go for 10 times what I paid, and I paid a lot.

Last time I looked they were going for around $600 plus shipping, taxes and any commissions. But as they are only getting rarer, the price is only going up. There's none on Yahoo Japan at the moment.

But good luck and what are they going into? Sedan or coupe?

notable notes:

-the link socs posted is for series 2 stovetops. they are a cheaper than the chrome series 1 stovetops... which go for top dollar.

-you may find a set for sale without the centre garnish. that's what i bought. but you will need the matching centre garnish as the aussie-spec one wont fit with them. the s1 garnish set me back about $100 landed i think so no biggie.

-the aussie spec rubber surrounds arent quite right for stove tops either. so keep that in mind when purchasing

-try not to pay more than $1000 for your own sake unless they are absolutely mint.

-and dont give up!

For the kind of money a nice set is going for now maybe its worth buying the cheapest, ugliest set of series one chromies you can find out of Japan and have them dipped locally in plasti-chrome. They'll look mint and hopefully come in under four figures.

Also and oddly, buying piece-by-piece might work out cheaper than a complete set. Single taillights often seem to go for less than 1/3 the cost of a complete set of lights plus the garnish. Import monster will let you hold the odds and ends in Japan until you have collected all the bits you need.

For reference my complete set was about $700 landed, in excellent condition four odd years back.

Happy hunting.

well said drew. if you have the patience than that is a good plan.

mine where about 600 or so landed in undamaged but a little green condition. got a tube of metal polish and polished them while watching telly over a couple of nights. came up pretty darn sweet.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...