Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrecking R32 4 Door in Canberra, ACT. I might be making a trip to Wollongong or Sydney, so I might be able to bring some of the larger parts with me. Preference is pickup but willing to organise post. Anything not listed please ask.

Greddy Intercooler - $200 ON HOLD pending sale

Stock RB20 turbo - $100

Piping kit - $100

HID's - $50

RB20DET (Some missing bits + Blown Headgasket) loom, with Mines ECU - $600

HSD Coilovers - $600

Adjustable Castor arms - $100

Power Steering rack - $100

Power Steering pump - $50

3 Inch catback exhaust - $200

4 pot + 2 pot brakes $200

Bonnet - $100 ON HOLD pending sale

Front head lights - $100

Indicators - $50

Guards - $10

Tail lights - $200

Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller - $150

Air filter - $50

Clutch and pressure plate - $150

Manual Gearbox - $300

Manual Tailshaft - $50

Clutch pedal, master and slave - $100 ON HOLD pending sale

Flywheel - $50

Splitfires - $200

Boost guage - $50

Shift guage/slight - $100

Momo Steering Wheel and Boss kit - $150

A/C gear - $100

Alternator - $50

Also selling a CA18DET package - $1200

Comes Engine with 2 manual gearboxes, loom, ecu, AFM, 3 heads, 2 alternators, 2 starters, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate

And also some crazy stereo setup - $800

2x 15inch Fusion powerplant subs in custom boxes for S13, schnider amp, amp wiring, RCA cables, TV, screen, DVD, speakers, etc. All the gear that was in the car.

Engine is out and ready to be picked up/shipped.

Most parts are available now.

Now also have:

rear glass out of a R32 2 door - $100

manual tail shaft - $50

R32 2 door passenger rear window - $40

Bilstin Front shocks with Nismo front and Rear Springs, rear shocks no working - $300

R32 4 Door Plastic Side Skirts and pods - $300

And the following items were sold today.

Sunroof

Dash surround

HID's

R33 Stock rims (pair)

Tail lights

3 inch Exhaust - But I have another one

Mirrors

Drivers power window switches

SMS sent

Replied, Cheers

long shot, do you have a starter motor for an rb30

Maybe, pretty sure RB20 one is the same. I should have one in my wagon I'm wrecking but i'll double check on the weekend. Are you pick up or posting?

do you have FMIC piping kit? im in belconnen and able to pick up. cheers

Waiting for payment on it at the moment. Will let you know if sale falls through.

I have a few more parts to add. I am now wrecking a few more cars:

Nissan S13 Silvia - CA18DET

Nissan R31 Pintara - FJ20ET

Nissan R31 Skyline - RB30E

Also some parts from a Nissan R32 Skyline GTS-T 2 Door.

I am not able to change the first post so I might start a new thread once all parts are listed. You can find an up to date parts list here: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=152475.msg1705335#msg1705335

long shot, do you have a starter motor for an rb30

I have a starter motor, two infact.

Also:

Stock looking side skirts and rear pods for R32 4 door - $300. They look factory but I'm not sure.

GTR three gauge dash cluster - $80

I sold a few things over the weekend so need to confirm availability.

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Sorry, I haven't updated this in a while. A few things have been sold since.

Greddy Intercooler - $200 SOLD

Piping kit - $100

HID's - $50 - SOLD

RB20DET (Some missing bits + Blown Headgasket) loom, with Mines ECU - $600 - SOLD

HSD Coilovers - $600 - SOLD

Adjustable Castor arms - $100 - SOLD

Power Steering rack - $100 - SOLD

Power Steering pump - $50 - SOLD

3 Inch catback exhaust - $200

4 pot + 2 pot brakes $200 - SOLD

Bonnet - $100

Front head lights - $100 - SOLD

Indicators - $50 - SOLD

Guards - $10 - SOLD

Tail lights - $200 - SOLD

Turbosmart Dual Stage Boost Controller - $150 - SOLD

Air filter - $50 - SOLD

Clutch and pressure plate - $150 - SOLD

Manual Gearbox - $300 - SOLD

Manual Tailshaft - $50 - SOLD

Clutch pedal, master and slave - $100 SOLD

Flywheel - $50 - SOLD

Splitfires - $200 - SOLD

Boost guage - $50 - SOLD

Shift guage/slight - $100

Momo Steering Wheel and Boss kit - $150 - SOLD

A/C gear - $100 - SOLD

Alternator - $50 - SOLD

rear glass out of a R32 2 door - $100

manual tail shaft - $50

R32 2 door passenger rear window - $40

Bilstin Front shocks with Nismo front and Rear Springs, rear shocks no working - $300

R32 4 Door Plastic Side Skirts and pods - $300 - SOLD

Also selling a CA18DET package - $1200 - SOLD

Comes Engine with 2 manual gearboxes, loom, ecu, AFM, 3 heads, 2 alternators, 2 starters, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate

And also some crazy stereo setup - $800

2x 15inch Fusion powerplant subs in custom boxes for S13, schnider amp, amp wiring, RCA cables, TV, screen, DVD, speakers, etc. All the gear that was in the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...