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hey guys, i wana get a bleed valve and up my boost just a little untill i can start doing the proper mods, what boost t would be better out of the go fast bits and turbosmart versions. also what boost would i run safley with stock cooler?

cheers

rodney

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Guest RedLineGTR

GFB's bleed valves are not to bad, i bleed valve will never be as good as a electronic controller which i myself cant afford at this time, but a boost gauge...something aftermarket is always good cos its hard to know how accurate the stock gauge is :) but pretty much each bleed valve does similar work.

I had a turbosmart bleedvalve, and then later on had an electronic solenoid hooked up to it and a hi/lo boost switch inside my cabin.

It worked great, and held boost fine, on cold nights (say around 12degrees) it would spike about 3psi.

If you have a boost gauge, look at it and keep an eye on it. But generally if your saving for modifications, its probably wise to save up and do them properly, instead of boosting your car, damaging something, and then not having cash to do anything.

But if you have your heart set on it, do it! =) I would check the health of your turbo before running higher boost, and i would do this simply by checking the wheel for movement (in and out is what scares me). Should be ok tho! i am just weary of ceramic turbos and raising boost.

We took a standard r33 to sydney and boosted it silly, we were running around 17-18psi constantly... it lasted a fair while... i think about 3 days. hehehe.

But yeah as these guys said, 10psi should be ok... 12psi is the max i'd run. I would set it to 9psi-10psi, that way if it does spike, it wont be spiking to dangerzones unless something is severely wrong.

I've got a bleeder on my car @ 13psi. Its been on 13psi for about 6 months now and I've never had a problem. It was also proven on a dyno that my $150 bleeder holds boost better than an AVC-R.

Before upping the boost its probably a good idea to get the fuel pump checked coz you'll need more juice to avoid detonation...

everything sounds good boys, i am aiming for and an electronic setup but meanwhile i will have a crack with the bleed valve for now, i cant see much difference between the turbosmart and gfb items, apparently the gated system on the turbosmart helps with bringing on boost,so i might go it.

Im running the turbosmart dual stage bleeder valve on my car at the moment.

Its running at 11 psi. I've been watching my boost gauge lately and noticed that on cold nights i may hit 15 psi.

So i have decided to get rid of mine and get an ebc. The bleeder was good while the car was at 180 rwkw but as soon as i got the power fc its been spiking a bit.

I also had one on my VL turbo before hand and had the same problem, so as long as its temporary and at low power levels u should have no dramas.

Any one need one in a couple of weeks....

I have a turbosmart valve and like everyone else has already said during colder weather it spikes from 0.85bar to around 1bar. Im getting a EBC installed soon because of that reason. On the other hand just buy a front mount and full exhaust and your boost will rise buy itself.

Hey,

Not too sure if I'm really qualified to give my opinion, but I have been shopping for a bleed valve myself. Anyway, I guess firstly may I say, the Search button is your friend. I recall reading a detailed post a little which back which did a comparison between the turbo smart and GFB variations.

And as these people here can attest, turbo smart was prone to spiking. A friend of mine has a GFB and swears by it. Runs at 10psi, and even on cold nights, he claims it doesn't spike at all.

So all I say is, I'll eventually get a GFB, but again, see if you can dig up that old post. :D

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