Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

A while back I bought a 2 way nismo LSD for my R32. It's sat in my garage with the backing plate on and wrapped in shipping plastic on a pallet. Unfortunately my garage is very damp and any bare metal does rust rather quickly. I finally got around to pulling the backing plate and found there is some rust on the diff rant.gif

As far as I can tell it's only on a couple of bolts on the crownwheel (?) and the two caps that hold the diff in the housing, all the important bits had a coating of oil and seem fine. My question is do I pull these parts out and give them a wirebrush then reinstall? Or do I need to pull apart an old open diff I have that is full of oil and will have no-rusted parts (are the caps interchangable?) Do I ignore it and just fill it up with oil then go racing?

Here's a pic, the rust is very crumbly and would come off easily.

IMAG0186.jpg

Also, how clean do I need to get the backing plate of old gasket goo? Completely clean, or just all major lumps taken off? And how much do I use to seal it?

IMAG0187.jpg

Any advice is much appreciated, I'm no expert on these matters!

Cheers

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396929-rust-inside-diff-advice-needed/
Share on other sites

Step 1: Buy 2L of LSX-90

Step 2: Drive around for 100km or until the oil is at least hot

Step 3: Drain oil, wipe drain plug with magnet and fill it up with your favourite blend

Diff's are extremely forgiving, if it was a conrod bolt with rust I would be saying pull it apart.

If you wanted to get really anal you could remove the caps one at a time and bead blast them. You can't interchange caps from other diffs as they are matched to the diff housing like a girdle is in an engine.

As for the glue, scrap as much off as you can and give both surfaces a rub with an oil stone which will make it nice an clean,

After a scuff up there didn't seem to be any debris that could come loose so I just went ahead and sealed it up. The backing plate has a metal gasket on it which I've never seen before... just put some high temp RTV over it and torqued it up. Will fill it with oil in the morning and see if it leaks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...