Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RNS11Z - sorry for jumping in on your thread..... but we are getting sick and tired of people chatting in this forum. Read the 2 stickies at the top before you post. Also, this is "Whole Cars", so if you want parts, call him, dont post in here. I dont really want to have to delete more so can you please only post if your interested in buying the car and not interested in getting your post count up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39737-320rwkw-r33-12000/#findComment-810953
Share on other sites

Dave, i dont see any chatting going on in this thread besides your post. I have read the notices aswell.

boostd: if you do a search under my name my old ad should come up with a list of mods on the engine.

ALSO THE CAR WILL NOT BE STRIPPED OR SELLING ANY PARTS. WILL BE SOLD AS A WHOLE CAR.

Harun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39737-320rwkw-r33-12000/#findComment-811048
Share on other sites

I can see from the first pic that the front bar and rims have seen better days, but was more interested in how servere the damage at the back was.

By the look of it, it was a hard hit and I was wondering how far in the damage goes?

I take it that the petrol tank is gone? and the HICAS res.? what condition is the diff. in? and has the prang pushed the diff. forward into the gearbox?

Are you able to take more pictures of the damage, maybe some from under the car aswell, so I can get a rough idea on what can be salvaged?

ALSO... if he was hit in the back, won't the other persons insurance cover the cost of repair?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39737-320rwkw-r33-12000/#findComment-811466
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...