Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did a search but couldnt find any info or photo's.

What have people done with a Highmount turbo utilising the stock inlet plenum?

Looking for some idea's with what to do with the cross over pipe?

Have people used the Std R34 throttle body? Or gone to the smaller R33? Has that presented any problems with the TCC?

I would rather not go to the expense of a different plenum.

Well, if you're still running TCC then yes, removing the TCC butterfly will put the system into a spin. Not recommended. Even if you were to delete the TCC stuff altogether (including the TC control unit) then the ECU would chuck fault codes. You'd have to put a Nistune into it to get rid of those.

The most minimal option would have to be to get rid of the cast alloy crossover and build a new crossover pipe that wasn't as long as the original one, so that the part that runs over the exhaust manifold area was moved closer to the centreline of the car (somewhere over the cam/coil covers). You'd probably end up having to relocate the BOV, might end up with the pipe being high enough to hit the bonnet (or maybe not), etc etc. But would be doable. Some good thermal wrap and reflective insulation and a good turbo heat shield would all be needed.

Others (not so much on Neos, but certainly on R33s and R32s) have put curved crossover pipes on that bring the return air up on the driver's side, over the front end of the driver's side cam cover. The picture that jangles just posted is a prime example, but I reckon it is a shit idea, as the flow will crowd the outside of the bend and will end up with bad distribution going through the TB and into the plenum. There's a whole thread on this stuff you should look at if you haven't already.

Edited by GTSBoy

I have a Nistune for it, can I remove the TCC and tune around it with a Nistune?

I was wondering if I'd have clearance around the bonnet to make a shorter pipe like the alloy one? I'm just trying to get an idea while I'm waiting for all my bits to arrive.

Put a big lump of plasticene on the exhaust side cam cover that sticks up nice and high, then close the bonnet. Open bonnet and measure the height of the blob. That will tell you how much clearance you have to fit a pipe there. Try a couple of different spots along the cam cover because the clearance won't be the same everywhere.

As for the Nistune, if you kill all the TC gear, then you will need to get a Stagea image put into the Nistune board. Stageas have no TC, and so they get no TC fault codes. I actually have to go see Matt to do this to my Neo ECU this week. Neo in R32 has no TC, but the ECU is upset because it has no comms from the TCU and the TC butterfly doesn't do its open-close-open routine at startup.

As for the Nistune, if you kill all the TC gear, then you will need to get a Stagea image put into the Nistune board. Stageas have no TC, and so they get no TC fault codes. I actually have to go see Matt to do this to my Neo ECU this week. Neo in R32 has no TC, but the ECU is upset because it has no comms from the TCU and the TC butterfly doesn't do its open-close-open routine at startup.

This.

Not actually all that hard, though I'm waiting on my tune next week to see how much of a difference it makes. Lack of TCS has been giving me headaches for years now. Your other option is to just trick the ECU into thinking it is receiving a signal from the TCS, though I think it would be easier to get the Stagea image uploaded. I also think you will find it impossible to do fit a high mount turbo setup in with the cooler piping with the TCS butterfly still in place, the damn thing just takes up so much room. Unless you had a very sharp angle that messed up your air flow.

I agree with GTSBoy on this though, I don't like the design of that piping with regard to air flow. You would be much better off just switching to a forward facing plenum, though having just done this myself I understand about the expense side of it...

Search secret squirrel in stagea thread - should be able to fool standard ecu or nistune in same way.

We use a R34GTT Powerfc in RS4S neo manual stagea's and fooled the ECU by having default tcs signal of 2.5V to ecu (pin 54?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...