Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Few left over bits and pieces from my car up for sale.

R33 Chromed Intake Runners

Spent weeks sanding smooth the runners and polishing them before getting them chrome dipped to match my Plazmaman plenum. The chroming cost me more than the price i'm asking!

First photo is as they sit at the moment. Needs some metal polish and a rag to buff them up to be 100% as seen in the other two photos.

dsc01455o.jpg338220309460317636afo.jpg3381385307f0bb73a291o.jpg

60mm Blitz AC Series Mechanical Boost Gauge $150

60mm Blitz AC Series Electric Exhaust Gas Temp Gauge $150

Will do both for $250

Very hard to get gauges now as Blitz no longer make them. Fit perfectly in a Greddy A pillar gauge. One of my very gauges and they illuminate a gorgeous white with red needle at night time.

post-35676-0-24994500-1334393754_thumb.jpg

40mm Cooling Pro Alloy Radiator (fits factory shroud)

Good upgrade to the factory item and fits perfectly with all the factory gear.

Nismo/Tomei R33 GTST Fuel Pump (direct plug and play)

Very easy install and good for over 300rwkw on a GTST. Will also suit a S14 Silvia. Very quite unit that is one of the best fuel pump upgrades available.

post-35676-0-41674200-1334393818_thumb.jpg

Greddy Turbo Timer Black $40

Your normal Greddy turbo timer that every one has. Has a bunch of extra features like lap timer, 0-100, voltage display etc.

Nos Nitrous Universal Wet Kit

Comes with a purge kit and also a 3/4 filled bottle. Jetting is from 50-150HP and can be installed very easily on any EFI car with just a tee piece from a fuel line. No tuning required.

(Please note this can not be freighted and only local pickup is available)

All items are located in Townsville North QLD and can freight Australia wide with E-go for cheap (other than the nitrous kit).

Any questions just feel free to ask. Will take some more photos of the other items this weekend.

Cheers

Phil

It's used buddy. Out of my R33 GTST Skyline. Only getting rid of it because I parted my car out.

Has done probably 20,000km. Looks basically new.

Can chuck a photo up tomorrow if you want.

Nah that's cool. By the time I added in postage i'd be better off getting a new one.

Thanks for the reply though.

Can do it for $220 delivered if you want.

They are $320 brand new from Just Jap plus freight, so maybe $350. Still a good saving.

Food for thought.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...