Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ouch. Some of the things said in that thread are not very nice.

Also hoping it all works out for you mate and hope the issues with the motor in the previous for sale ad are now also 100%.

Nice car, i'm sure you will love it.

Regards.

Issues with the motor??

I can't see any reference to any issues in either of the for sale posts?

Can you point me in the right direction.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry, hopefully didnt get you worried.

If the precautionary measures stated in the thread were taken, you should be right.

As I said before, nice car - you have picked a sexy colour.

Regards.

Sorry, hopefully didnt get you worried.

If the precautionary measures stated in the thread were taken, you should be right.

As I said before, nice car - you have picked a sexy colour.

Regards.

All good.

The car is going to JPC today for a full inspection and comp test, so we will see.

is JPC where the work was done?

if yes i'd be taking it to an 'independent' place to get checked....

plus you need to know EXACTLY what was wrong previously (as much as you can know) - and aren't HKS 2530's discontinued? If so, it would have to be a second hand set of turbos that went on??

Before those who ask wat was this 'incident' - nothing major - the trust t517z's no longer produce any boost wat so ever, as a precautionary I will have a reputable work shop do all required tests etc to make sure the motor is 100% ok , if noti will have rips motor put in or original rebuilt for the new owners piece of mind. Turbos will be replaced with the hks gt-rs with a new amuse Ti front pipe thrown on also.

nothing major??? Yes 2 turbos not working on an Rb26 is 'nothing major'.... i suppose the labour bill to replace them is also.... 'nothing major.

you also don't just "put in" a RIPS RB30... quite a bit of work involved...

and if the results come back bad, he's just going to rebuild it.... just like that for the "owners piece of mind"??? at a rep workshop, for a standard 2.6, that's like a 10-12K job

is JPC where the work was done?

if yes i'd be taking it to an 'independent' place to get checked....

plus you need to know EXACTLY what was wrong previously (as much as you can know) - and aren't HKS 2530's discontinued? If so, it would have to be a second hand set of turbos that went on??

The car was originally worked on at JPC when owned by the previous owner - from what I understand it now is worked on by Allstar Garage.

So yes, I would say JPC are independent as when I spoke to them on the phone they told me the above information.

I have been told the 2530's have had a rebuild prior to installation.

nothing major??? Yes 2 turbos not working on an Rb26 is 'nothing major'.... i suppose the labour bill to replace them is also.... 'nothing major.

you also don't just "put in" a RIPS RB30... quite a bit of work involved...

and if the results come back bad, he's just going to rebuild it.... just like that for the "owners piece of mind"??? at a rep workshop, for a standard 2.6, that's like a 10-12K job

The car does not have the RIPS engine in it.

The engine is still the original engine.

So it appears just the turbos have been replaced.

i know it doesn't have a RIPS engine in it, but that was 'Plan B' according to the seller... and it's far from a take 26 out and put 30 in - shut bonnet - job.

receipts for 2530's being rebuilt?

that's all well and good... but what about 'HIRISK' (dude, seriously... your username.... there's a word i'm thinking of... can't quite put my finger on it.... :D)

i have to double check, but in that sale thread, he's selling the Trust turbo's as 'excellent condition'.... kinda different to the 'weren't making any boost' version for the reason to switch to 2530's.

HIRISK., how'd you go mate??

.... still can't get over your username considering....... :ninja:

Everything is progressing really well.

I have had the car fully inspected by JPC and everything passed with flying colours, including the compression test. I spoke to Danny on the phone for a while about the car and all good.

Collin has booked it in for a check up tune with Allstar Garage and after that it is going off for a full detail, cut, polish etc.

I am flying over in the 1st week of October to personally pick her up and put on a truck back to Melbourne.

I can't speak for any of the other people who have had issues on this forum and also know there is two sides to very story, to be honest, I do not want to get involved at all.

But I can speak for myself and say that, to date, Collin has been good to deal with and I am still confident all is well and on track for the 1st week of October.

Cheers,

Shaun.

did you get receipts for the rebuild work on the 2530's? because he was selling the Trust turbos as "excellent condition" which seems a bit strange as he had to replace them.

power runs on a known dyno are probably a better indication than compression test, so Allstar should give you a better indication. If it makes the power, it makes the power. Did you get a leak down test?

Don't bother with the detail, ESPECIALLY if you're trucking it to Melbourne. Wait until you've it's passed through all the workshop hands, trucking companies, RWC in Melbourne, Vic roads etc... and THEN get it detailed. It's the last thing you should do, especially if you're going to get it checked over by a reputable workshop here in Melbourne as well (a good idea).

Once you've done all the boring, annoying stuff like RWC's, vicroads etc... take it to Final Inspection after :)

good luck.

Don't bother with the detail, ESPECIALLY if you're trucking it to Melbourne. Wait until you've it's passed through all the workshop hands, trucking companies, RWC in Melbourne, Vic roads etc... and THEN get it detailed. It's the last thing you should do, especially if you're going to get it checked over by a reputable workshop here in Melbourne as well (a good idea).

Once you've done all the boring, annoying stuff like RWC's, vicroads etc... take it to Final Inspection after :)

good luck.

^ Good advice, detailing process should wait post delivery for optimal results.

It is not so much a full detail, more just cut and polish and clean to ensure the factory guards, bonnet etc all come up good after being in storage.

Once it is back in Melbourne and registered I will then get a full detail done.

still a waste of time. A bad 'cut and polish' can create more work for a proper detail than if it was left un-touched. Seriously, just leave ANY sort of detailing until it's finished all it's workshop/travel time. If it's coming over covered transport, just make sure it's washed, that's all.

And take SHITLOADS of photos so you know EXACTLY what condition it was when it left. Take (or get taken) lots of close ups of the rim lips, front lip especially, lower sections (skirts, rear pods), rear diffuser. Of course, odo reading as well.

^ 100%.

For example a rotary buffer in the incorrect hands can cause a significant amount of swirl to your paint, and if they dont mask up the rubbers effectively it can burn and scar them.

Each to their own though, you know what you're doing.

Cant wait to see some pics.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...