Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just noticed siting at idle if I tap the accelerator slightly it drops revs then picks up.

Idles at about 800-900 but with the tap drops to near 500

Could this be related to my current issue with my throttle being jerky as I either come off throttle or coming onto throttle.

I been reading up and few people said TPS voltage and with the jerking throttle while driving can also be related to the diff needing to be shimmed.

Thoughts guys please?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397867-slight-tap-drops-revs/
Share on other sites

It is most likely that the TPS is not adjusted properly. The way I used to adjust it (RB20, not 25, but should be same) before knowing about what the closed throttle TPS voltage was supposed to be was to set it so that the slightest movement of the throttle would cause the injectors to do their little double pulse (you can hear it happen). That was close enough to the correct setting that it was always fine. The actual at rest voltage is about 0.4v.

I will check the TPS voltage when I get a voltage checking gizmo

Tune was only recent and I spoke to DVS about it and he said could possibly be that.

But I only just noticed it doing it at idle so it was kind of hard for him to diagnose over messages

I'll post the results up in here

Yes it will be in the tune, wen it goes from idle map to fuel and ignition map. Ur nistune was a bit of a pain in the tps department.

Remember it was way out and i had to adjust the tps trigger voltage. I mustnt have got it perfect.

Try adjusting the tps slightly either way otherwise i will have to fix it up for u :)

Yes thats correct. The rb20 ecu has a tuneable tps trigger voltage. Rb25 doesnt as they use a different tps that works off a set voltage to trigger idle maps on and off.

Yes i got it to turn on and off but it mustn't be perfectly adjusted.

U will need a multimeter or consult cable to adjust it. Or u can try trial and error. But make sure u mark it before u adjust it incase u go backwards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...