Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was just after some experienced input from anyone who has fitted a radiator 'cooling' panel to their car. I'm using the stock bonnet, so it would give no cooling benefits on my car, I'm purely after the cosmetic benefits. Problem is, I've got a Top Secret front bar, and I'm not sure how this would affect fitment?

I've never actually looked at how/where the stock front bar sits on an R34 as my car came with the Top Secret kit, but I notice aftermarket cooling panels specify that they are for the front bumper. However, surely things such as the bonnet lever/catch etc. would all still be in the same place? The Top Secret bar bolts on using two tabs on each side of the top grill, right next to the headlights. As this is where the stock bonnet sits, I can't imagine the stock bumper would be too much different?

So, my question is, where do these aftermarket cooling panels sit that makes them bumper-specific? Would it be possible to modify one to suit my front bar or not? Given I'm after looks, I'd obviously want it to fit quite well. Would I be better off making my own?

Cheers,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398092-radiator-cooling-panels/
Share on other sites

I have an r33 full width CF radiator air guide panel and no it doesnt meet up with the front bar really.

but on the r34 it seems the front bar and grill are one piece check out the pic and yes it does seem to meet up with the front bar in that pic...

I guess it depends on the front bar really... latch and stuff will all be std positioning though even with a dif front bar of course...

festival6-1.jpg

Yeh not sure how the 34 GTR ones would compare with the GT/T ones, as the bonnets are different. So in that case I can see how the air guide would be different.

Has anyone got pictures of how the stock GT/T bumper fits on? I can't find any good pictures. The ones I have found look exactly the same as mine, but I can't be 100% sure that they are pictures of the stock bumper. If they are then I'm pretty sure that the Top Secret front bar sits in exactly the same spot as the stock one as it looks like they use the same mounting points, like this one:

post-6399-1124781685.jpg

Edited by Hanaldo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...