Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But also just wondering what are the results with a boxed in pod

Thinking the same thing, Because i made a Pipe coming from the direct air of my bar through to my Pods which are gna be Boxed very soon.

The previous owner of my car was kind enough to supply me with the stock airbox, However it had about 50 holes drilled through the top. So had no real choice but to stick with the pod. Mine is in a proper enclosure though.

Im keen to run to my car on a dyno with my pods exclosed with a cai tube from the bar. Then again with the tube blocked up... Just to seriously see if it does make a difference.

not to crap on those guys videos, but to generalise and say that putting a pod or K&n filter onto every car will make no difference, or make you lose power is a bit wrong. some cars respond better to intake mods than others. i've owned cars where filter changes have made a noticable difference, and others where it hasn't done squat. it really comes down to the design of the individual intake

Correct Dear Sir.

Instead of debating...

'box or pod' > 'pod or box'

'dry or oil' > 'oil or dry' etc...

consider firstly this...

On the R34 GTR, one can have a standard box but change the intake.

Nismo R&D came up with an intake that increases airflow by 15%

Nissan itself don't forget had a knock-out baffle that was kept in place so that it could further add weight to its argument of staying 'within the legal constraint of 206Kw at the fly'

The exposed pod Vs enclosed pod/airbox is the problem, though on the dyno when a fan is blowing/forcing air into the radiator/air intake is not a accurate test on the road test.

The problem with a exposed pod is when stationary or at low speeds, not enough air is being forced into the engine bay to displace the hot air created by the radiant heat from the motor.

With a airbox or proper enclosed pod with a CAI the air will be at a much lower temperature than the exposed pod, cooler air is more dense which we all know is what you need.

A exposed pod will sound like its better due to the louder induction noise but will be less efficient until enough speed is reached to displace to hot air at the filter under the bonnet, which is fine when your traveling at high speeds but you pay for it at lower speeds.

The theory behind the pod is you have a greater surface area which in turn helps it flow, but sucking in hot air will negate any benefit until high speed is reached, even then the air still won't be as cold as a enclosed filter with CAI.

For a street car or drag car when you want the coldest air possible from 0kpm to have the most response a exposed pod under the bonnet will reduce the efficiency of the motor.

Go for a drive and then open the bonnet and touch where the filter is, that's the temp of the air going in. do the same with a enclosed one and you will notice a huge difference in temperature.

Its simple physics.

But as always simple heckticness seems to beat simple physics.

The exposed pod Vs enclosed pod/airbox is the problem, though on the dyno when a fan is blowing/forcing air into the radiator/air intake is not a accurate test on the road test.

The problem with a exposed pod is when stationary or at low speeds, not enough air is being forced into the engine bay to displace the hot air created by the radiant heat from the motor.

With a airbox or proper enclosed pod with a CAI the air will be at a much lower temperature than the exposed pod, cooler air is more dense which we all know is what you need.

A exposed pod will sound like its better due to the louder induction noise but will be less efficient until enough speed is reached to displace to hot air at the filter under the bonnet, which is fine when your traveling at high speeds but you pay for it at lower speeds.

The theory behind the pod is you have a greater surface area which in turn helps it flow, but sucking in hot air will negate any benefit until high speed is reached, even then the air still won't be as cold as a enclosed filter with CAI.

For a street car or drag car when you want the coldest air possible from 0kpm to have the most response a exposed pod under the bonnet will reduce the efficiency of the motor.

Go for a drive and then open the bonnet and touch where the filter is, that's the temp of the air going in. do the same with a enclosed one and you will notice a huge difference in temperature.

Its simple physics.

But as always simple heckticness seems to beat simple physics.

About sums up everything thrown at ya.

good post. I might just get a dyno with my pods exposed then another dyno with my pods enclosed with a cai tube from my bar direct .

About sums up everything thrown at ya.

good post. I might just get a dyno with my pods exposed then another dyno with my pods enclosed with a cai tube from my bar direct .

You missed my point though about the DYNO, it doesnt matter if you have 350kw or 355kw at peak rpm on a dyno (which is only a tuning tool), its the initial acceleration, from standstill, a efficient motor with less power will initially outperform a less efficiant one with more power, and when we are talking about a only a few kw its not enough to makeup for the weaker performace down low.

Im sure a dyno can be set up so that you can get on it from idle and go through the gears to access the acceleration charicteristics, Im far from a expert on this.

Sorry if Im confusing things, I know what Im meaning to say, COLD AIR GOOD, HOT AIR BAD, LOL.

Basically I am guessing as long as whatever your intake is as long as it is exposed to as cool as air possible it should be sweet, be it an enclosed pod with CAI or the standard air box with CAI.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...