Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I recently bought a 95 r33 GTS-T and got my grandfather (mechanic but knows nothing about turbo's) to change my oil and oil filter. I saw him pour just over 4 litres in and thought 'isn' t that too much?' the oil checker showed full.

Then I installed a second hand bleed valve and just guessed the correct measurement, gave it flat stick and noticed that the needle had moved up to the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken. Thrilled with the massive power increase I took it up to 4th gear twice. Then I took the bleedvalve off to try and feel the power difference. To my HORROR and shock I noticed a huge cloud of smoke blowing out of my exhaust. Now I'm burning up oil and the smoke is still there. (although the smoke isn't as bad as when it first happened). I thought the problem went away because it was still spooling fine on stock boost and couldn't really see the smoke anymore but that night I went to the runs, and noticed my oil went from full to low. It's burning oil and I assume I've blown a turbo seal maybe? Okay now here's the question:

1) Does anyone know a good mechanic?

2) What do I do?

3) How much do you think it will cost assuming turbo needs replacing?

I'd have a guess and say that you would be up for an engine rebuild :(

you have probably blown a piston ring

Stock fuel pumps arent that good and increasing boost without a tune is a recipe for detonation, especially 4th gear runs..

If the engine sounds okay you might be right, more like the turbo. The turbo can burn lots ot oil very quickly creating lots of smoke :( So this could be the problem, for your sake lets hope so!

If you definatly know its the turb and you do the work yourself you will get away with it for whatever you pick the std turbo up for see in the for sale section. If there isnt one for sale do a search there would have been in the past and it will give you an idea of what there worth.

The job is pretty sraight forward (just 4 lines with banjo fittings and bolts and hose clamps hear and there to attach manifolds etc. from memory) its abit fiddly but you save $$$ and get the satasfaction of doin it yourself and learn abit more about your car.

Dont know how much a mec would charge have to be afew hours at least.

Good luck, hope it doesnt end up being anything to serious.

Theres a good chance its not gonna be anything to serious with the engine if youve still got std ecu correct me if im wrong but if you dialed in tomuch boost you would have hit fuel cut well before the std pump ran out of huff, i mean whats the point in nissan putting that sort of protection on the car if its gonna lean out and destroy the engine before it kicks in. The std ecu is very protective of the engine but i guess anything can happen

Tell your Grandpa to do a compression test. If that checks out, your problem is most likely turbo related. Provided a wheel hasn't contacted a housing, it can be rebuilt & balanced to better than factory specs for very reasonable cost.

Hope that helps ya out, Bro.

(the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken.)

6 or 7psl would be more accurate. 7mmhg is about 14.5psi. and the only line between 0 and 7 is halfway inbetween. B est advice I can give you is..........

1) STOP making assumptions

2) Forget all the advice you've just read in this thread

3) Search this forum to find a "well thought of workshop"

4) Go to them before you do anything else stupid

(the line inbetween 0 to 7 mmhg. This line equates to roughly 11 psi if i'm not mistaken.)

 6 or 7psl would be more accurate.   7mmhg is about 14.5psi. and the only line between 0 and 7 is halfway inbetween.    B est advice I can give you is..........

1)  STOP making assumptions

2)  Forget all the advice you've just read in this thread

3)  Search  this forum to find a "well thought of workshop"

4)  Go to them before you do anything else stupid

:werd:

thank you every1

I believe my engine is fine because I still have power and no sounds at all.

I can rev the **** out of it up to 7 grand, it performs great.

Oil burns, so I think OTTO is right about the turbo burning up the oil.

HOPEFULLY ! hehe

what i would do is take it to a mechanic and get them to tell you whats wrong with it. pay them the money and then you go out and fix the problems yourself.

There is plenty of stuff in these forums going to sale.

Yes LAL thanks for that advise I think I will do that actually.

Now I'm burning up oil and the smoke is still there. (although the smoke isn't as bad as when it first happened).  

Do you have oil coming out of your BOV? Higher boost means more blow by, which means more oil through the intake. This can cause alot of oil to be burnt.

If you think you can give it a go (get grandad to help) try pulling an intercooler pipe off, and checking for oil inside it. If you can find alot of oil there, that MAY be your problem, esp if everything else is ok except for the smoke.

If there is oil through the pipes, clean them out. Also, remove the intercooler and give it a flush with metho or similar - clean all the sh1t out.

If you ever have to turn up the boost again, fit a decent catch can. Not always necessary, but better safe than sorry. Oil mixing with the intake charge isnt ideal.

OR, as Neil points out, take your car to an appropriate mechanic.

I am running 14 psi on my gtst. Have no problems now. Have a duel stage turbo smart controler. All i had to do was change the spark plugs and put the right gap on them. Also get the timing right. Running standed ecu and intercooler. Don't get fuel cut in any gear apart from 5th and that is only of doing 100 to 125 kms after that fine. For any more details goto http://www.mrdperformance.biz/ they to all the work on my car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...