Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the tps on nistune cars is insanely sensitive my tps was no kidding a pube hair off and the car would go nuts , ashley put his laptop on it and even he said it was mad sensitive( i set it by ear and feel after my carbon removal of throttle plate lol) , check your throttle manifold gasket mine was a tiny tiny leak and the car wouldnt run good enough to even drive 10kph it would stall slowly , hunt around and misfire unreal just on boost had to use blue rtv till my nissan gasket came from the moon 3 days to get one here ffs

The tps can throw errors but its rare , once TB cleaned it was way off and i had to set by ear and feel till i had a laptop on it , the 34 manual has the voltage specs to test it

This maybe a shot in the dark but reset your ecu i did and it cleared my other issue ( nistune ecu base program) and unplug and use electronics cleaner on tps and cas connection and some silicone spray once plugged back in to repel moisture

i would seriously fix that T on the fuel reg a leak can run your motor lean - motor go boom in a flash and then you can pour the broken rings and melted piston out the r34 has a vacuum pickup in the back near brake hose vacuum? its rubber plugged from factory

Your sure the TB blade backside is clean a tiny bit of carbon fouls the idle and it hunts around while the tps tries to sort it out ?

if thats all good

Air leak between manifold and afm , most likely behind the engine area near firewall ( the maf sensor on firewall area ) or near afm

you cleaned the afm with maf cleaner and reset ecu ? checked the plug for corrosion ? oil film on hot wire and it all goes south ?

your airfilter is clean ??? pcv clean or removed to catch can with feedback loop ?

Plug gap set right ? clean ? And tight ? (Screw top plugs tight if that applies to yours ?)

Low voltage at fuel pump ? common issue with upgrades , check grounds by pump

If not then a bad spray pattern or clogged , leaky injector , dirty poor fuel ?

fuel pump clog if the car has ever had e10 or e85 in it , it dislodges tank rust and eats rubber even in small doses

CAS not sitting flat and tight or bad plug ? But that throws errors in most cases

Did you change your tyre air as specified ? common problem hahaha

And god forbid a timing belt flapping around on a broken idler pulley tensioner ( doubt it but they can break off and drop the belt !) that usually sorts it self out quick , leaves you stranded

go see ashley tell him troy sent ya his shop is behind hungry jacks area in hackam off south rd

ha ha looks like im spending anzac day checking as much as i can on my car!

ill let u know what i find by tonight, either way if i dont find the problem, ill take it to your mate hopefully before the weekend.

Thanks again!

mmmmk so after all my checks, it all came back clear... still have my problem.

But i spoke to matt from nistune, and he seems to share my thought pattern on the injectors being the issue.

Xspurt injectors are a modified bosch.

Some people love them, but im finding quickly most tuners do not.

either way i have purchase some new injectors, hoping that this will solve my issues.

  • 5 years later...

sorry to bring up an old thread, but I'm just curious to know what the problem was and if you have gotten it solved? I only ask because I'm currently having this issue with my 1999 GTT and it's driving me insane trying to figure out what it is. Any help would be appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...