Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I am hoping to get some much needed advice in regards to my front suspention. I drive a '96 R33 GTST and over the past couple of months/weeks I have noticed a 'sag' in the front drivers side wheel guard. I believe it is a good 20mm difference between my front right side and my front left side height. This has become even more noticeable lately due to the rubbing of my tyre on the inner plastic wheel guard when I have close to full lock or go over speed bumps.

Anyway, I took the car to my mechanic today to see what is going on. Apparently my bump stop on the right had side is failing to repond to raising attempts. I have been told that my left hand side is more rigid, and the right is soft, so the car will tend to rock to the right side (causing rubbing in some circumstances). I currently have Nismo shocks in the fronts.

So, I have asked what my options are. I have been told that at the moment this isn't a major issue, and the rubbing is minimal, with no chance of and major damage being caused. I had the notion of getting new Bilstein shocks (which would match my rear Bilsteins) to see if that would help, but apparently it will have no effect as its the bump stop and springs that are keeping the car at that height.

I have been advised to look at a coilover set. Tein Super Street coilovers or HSD's have been suggested. The only thing that is stopping me about going this route is a) the price, and b) do I really need this setup?

Your suggestions and thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Edited by The White Knight

A shock absorber doesnt hold the car up, the spring does...

replace springs, but while your at it you may as well replace front two shocks with some more bilsteins to match the rear, replace springs, boots and bumpstops.

That as cheap and reliable as you can get out of this one...

then wait for something else to break.

Agreed. Do not buy coilovers (just for the front) as they will not match whatever you have in the rear real well, and it could be awful.

By the way, I don't know what drugs your mechanic is on, as there is no adjustment of any sort in the factory front strut on a Skyline.

I think he has worded it wrong. I am not entirely clued up on suspension components, but from what I have gathered, he things the RHF strut is done, and the bump stop on that side can't be adjusted.

I asked about throwing Bilstein shocks, new springs, boots and bumpstops in, but he seemed to think that wouldn't be the best option.

I should mention that I completely trust this guy with my car, he has never led me down the wrong path, and he even suggested to find whatever I need (be it coilovers, or whatever) on the net or find the cheapest I can, then he will put them in. So with that, he isn't trying to push any particular brands or components.

Agreed. Do not buy coilovers (just for the front) as they will not match whatever you have in the rear real well, and it could be awful.

By the way, I don't know what drugs your mechanic is on, as there is no adjustment of any sort in the factory front strut on a Skyline.

GTSBoy, I would go coilovers as a set, so I'd take out the rear Bilsteins.

I may look at what 75coupe has suggested, as that seems the most logical seeing as I already have a good rear setup

I dont trust him already...

Bumpstops not adjustable, just saying that is bizarre....

So your going to replace two apparantly ok rear suspension struts because he said its best..?

crazy and will cost you $1200 just for parts, btw you could do the install yourself its easy as, like easy, like changing a tyre easy...

two bilsteins struts, $400 if look around brand new... and done...

Thanks 75coupe, you have been helpful.

I have been looking up posts on Bilstein and Whiteline setups. This looks promising, seeing as I pretty much have half of it done already. My only other concern would be buying bumpstops.

I shall look into it.

Thanks again

Bump stops could be removed from the car completely and you would not know the difference unless you tried to Dukes of Hazard the car. They have absolutely nothing to do with ride height or body control, except at the extreme of suspension travel (like if you hit a brick, spoon drain, or jump a bridge yeeeeehaaaaaw!)

Edited by GTSBoy

use the stock bumpstops they are fine as long as they are still in ok condition..

If your useing lowered springs cut the bumpstop down a tad, this is what I did, there is no problem...

make sure you use boots though, they are the rubber sleeve that covers the strut, the shiny rod of the shock absorber, you dont want dirt getting in there it will shorten the life of the shock by chewing the seal out..

I used generic CV boots from repco, $12ea easy to get... or I also though I could use a bicycle tube cut down, I used some wire straps to make sure the boots stay in place protecting the strut...

It really is an easy job replace suspension, do it yourself save a heap, feel good afterwards...

get an aligement afterwards to be sure its all sweet... it your lowering def get an alignment and give thought to camber adjustment parts, there's a whole heap more info on that subject to be learnt... search

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...