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Wrecking my drift car, as i am about to buy a new car so im wrecking it.

DMAX fiberglass bonnet with pins - $400ono

Front Guards- $120 ono

Nismo 2way LSD - $400ono

genuine nissan 32 gtst pods and skirts - $180ono

gtr rear bar - $100

R32 half cage 6 point 2" with 1 peice cross over pipe - $500

r32 tail lights $190 pair

R32 dash- $260

R34 front seats $200 each

R34 rear seats (clipped corners to suit roll cage) $150

R34 cluster- $400

r34 gtt boost gauge cluster set (OEM center bit) - $200

R32 mirrors- $50 each

R32 Boot lid- $100

R32 door Cards (good cond. with window switches ) - $ 200 ono for the pair

R32 doors - $150 each, $180 with glass

R32 head llamps- $150 each

r32 clear indicators-$120 for the pair

theres more parts that i have missed like carpet etc brake gear clutch gear

selling the whole rolling shell as is with all these parts for $4000 ono<<

interested in this, what sort of condition is it in?

Nismo 2way LSD - $400ono

Diff is in good condition, changed oil 3 weeks prior to engine removal

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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