Steering Problem

[madmatsmadhouse]

hey guys..

over the weekend i changed by break fluid. i bleed all 4 breaks and the clutch. the front calipers were removed so i could push back the fluid in the pistons to get it all out. everything was re installed no worries.

went to drive to work this morning the steering wheel seemed to have quite a bad shutter in it.

you would only have to be going 40-50km's whilst turning and you could feel the shutter.

it wont shutter going in a straight line, though said i hit 110 and it just started shuttering like crazy all the way back down to 80..??

it will only shutter going around corners where you have to move the steering wheel a bit. bumps seem to encourage the vibrations to.

its almost like it feels like both wheels are fighting one another. if i turn to the right lets say and it starts to shutter it feels like the wheel wants to turn its self left like im fighting it and the more you fight the more shutter you get. its weird. there is quite a bit of force behind it to..

kind of feels like abs shutter when im cornering but im not under breaks or anything.. could the abs do this..?

iv had a mechanic go over the car this morning and he can see anything loose or slack anywhere. he said the front end is quite tight actually. he said it could be wheel balance or alignment so iv taken the car to get that done, thought i dont see how this will help. the mechanic was pulling and pushing on things but couldnt find anything wrong.

one thing i did do was jack the front of the car from the front cross member under the motor. i know the steering actuator is mounted up there so i might of bent something.. i showed and asked the mechanic and he seems to thing that wouldn't of done anything..?

its usually pretty smooth to drive and has never had shutter to it whats so ever. could it be anything to do with the abs.. or could have i stuffed the steering actuator..? it moves quite free still as do the rotors in the caliper. nothing else on the car was touched and no wheels were rotated..

dose anyone have any suggestions..? its a r34 gt manual.. rwd n/a

[madmatsmadhouse]

iv just been reading about this HICAS thing.. i still dont fully understand how it works or how to lock it out. would by r34 have HICAS and could it be this causing my problem..?

im not trying to push the car when the wheel starts shuttering, it will do it even at 60km

[madmatsmadhouse]

ok so i got the car back from getting the wheel balance and alignment done. the boys in the shop said they cant find anything wrong or know why the steering is shuttering.

drove it home and its still shuttering. change of road surface will cause it to start shuttering. going left and right on the steering wheel fast but small amount of movement will also cause the shutter to start up. accelerating while its shuttering dosent change much, if anything it gets worse. once it starts it will get worse for a bit then dies off its self. it happens quite frequent and usually lasts for a few seconds. there was one time it started up as i was cornering and i kept accelerating a bit causing the shutter to stay for about 20 seconds.

i got home and started playing with the steering. i reversed up the road at idle full locking the steering wheel left and right quite fast. sometimes it would get a point where the steering goes really hard all of a sudden.then some times it would relax again and get easy through the turn but other times it caused the hole steering to go stiff (as if the pump wasnt running (motor of)) and would stay like this untill you stopped moving the wheel for a second then it would be ok again.. i found that quite weird.

when going slow i can hear a squeak rattle sound when going over a bump. now when i hear the noise the shutter happens. when driving and the shutter happens you can sort of hear something beating the same as the shutter somewhere in the car.

going over a small but pointy speed hump the other day in it i noticed one of the shockers had a loud dry squeak noise come from it..

could the shuttering be something to do with the power steering actuator or system where valves or something arnt functioning like they should.? or getting cavitation in the system somewhere from a leak or something.

im just very concerned because the car never usto do this and the problem is in the steering. i have to drive the car 150km a day to get to work and i know what its like to have a front wheel collapse underneath the car (taking the break line with it and breaking it) after just come round a corner at 70km lol. thanks pedders for the dodgy repairs.. cant even get "the right bolt" right....

dose anyone have any ideas..?

[nauto34]

Im no expert but if you didn't have issues before taking the front wheels/calipers off to bleed the brakes i'd start there. I'd check that the pads are seated properly and check for gouges/rough spots on the rotors. Work back from where you started and see what you find.

Good luck

[madmatsmadhouse]

thanks nauto34. iv already done that, was the first thing i did at 7.30 in the morning when i got back home haha. i also had both mechanics look over the breaks and they couldnt see anything wrong.

iv bought a bottle of nulon power steering fluid with stop leak formula to wack in the power steering system. maybe the valves and seals other things in the system need some freeing up. was going to fill the system with this stuff for a few weeks then put normal fluid back in it.

for all i know its never been changed..?

is there a way to bleed the system.? if so how

how do you dump all of the existing fluid from the system.?

[madmatsmadhouse]

looked up the steering system uses aprox 1 liter of fluid. i bet the 950ml bottle i bought just wont do it..

[AshR34GTT]

Does it happen with traction control off as well?

[Carbon 34]

Leaked brake fluid on pads? Now it empregnated

In them, or fluid or grease on rotors now hot spotted , backside prob

Shocks creaking are most likely dead or too low/bent

Power steering

Use lucas power steering oil or trans fluid ,not nulon junk !! The lucas will be drastic difference in smoothness and idle vibrations, find it at supercheap but beware the bottle is in usa sizes so trans size for 19 bucks if you flush it

Small size if its really bad shape plus trans oil

Redline trans can be used as well but its expensive ( smells like hell too lol) mine flushed with outboard cooler used 2 liters roughly ( about 80 bucks worth !!)

when you do power steering it has to be done front jacked up and on stands , free drop the wheels so they can be moved free by hand

Flush, fill, move wheels lock to lock a few times by hand no engine running!!

once your happy and fluid full again

start the engine , you might hear a loud squeal if the pump was low but only last a split second, turn locks to lock a few more times you will see the wheels freaking out and short shutter violently until all air is out , you will also notice any loose parts rattling on the suspension when that happens

If the pump isnt leaking that should sort it

Unless brake related