Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Looking at getting some camber arms front and rear for my r33 to give added adjustability and help with wheel fitment etc.

Just wondering if there is any real difference besides price between:

Rear: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20060&cat=396&page=1 or http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16598&cat=396&page=2

Front: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17665&cat=396&page=2

and the jap branded equivalents

Rear:http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-adjustable-rear-upper-arms-nissan-10mm-6mm-9359 or http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-adjustable-rear-upper-arm-links-nissan-9360 (whats the difference between the two of these?)

Front:http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-negative-camber-upper-a-arms-nissan-r33-r34-wgnc34-16650 (why do these look different to the ones posted above from jjr?)

Any insight is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399869-camber-arms/
Share on other sites

Difference is cusco bearings will last longer and arms probably are stronger. That being said I run jjr arms on my drift car and been fine for last 1.5years but thats not a daily so bearings might go quick on a daily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399869-camber-arms/#findComment-6352229
Share on other sites

I have the Cusco front arms. The two piece ones can't be certed in NZ as you can see the one piece ones are going to be stronger.

The two different rear ones are different parts - take your rear wheel off and have a look.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399869-camber-arms/#findComment-6352571
Share on other sites

They are not mislabelled. You will notice if you read the complete description that neither is actually called a "camber arm" but both when adjusted will affect the camber.

Ok, and which do you think would be better for a street driven car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399869-camber-arms/#findComment-6353246
Share on other sites

Ok, and which do you think would be better for a street driven car?

I am not sure how your R33 differs from my Stagea but I would be inclined to get an arm of this type first:

http://justjap.com/s...&cat=396&page=1

and depending on how much you have lowered the car you may be able to get by just using the eccentric adjuster on the stock toe arms.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399869-camber-arms/#findComment-6353499
Share on other sites

How much adjustment do the just jap arms give? It doesnt mention it on the website.

Whiteline rear camber arms on their website look the same as that though, so they could be a go if they give decent adjustment.

The cheaper 2 peice front upper arms look a little dicey I think. Has anyone used them and care to comment on the quality of them?

Edited by Mitcho_7
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399869-camber-arms/#findComment-6353652
Share on other sites

i would rather go with eccentric bushes for street cars but i don't know how much adjustability they offer but i went with ball joints but not the branded ones because i rather not mount my car on anything with $1000+ ikeya formulas under my car and i know i'll be replacing them in a year or so

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399869-camber-arms/#findComment-6359146
Share on other sites

well with everyday driving where there are pot holes, bumps, train tracks etc i would stay away from ball joints but it's your choice. i went with ball joints because i rarely drive my car on the streets and for the adjustablility but there's alot more playing around with other components that'll effect allignment as well. so for a street set up i would go with bushes and let the wheel alligner do their job setting it so i can forget it and maybe get it reallignned half yearly or so

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399869-camber-arms/#findComment-6359285
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...