Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all, my first post here. I searched my questions for a few hours, Im hoping this isnt going to be repetative, I tried my best to make sure it isnt. I have a few questions in regards to the ECU's (ECCS) found in 89-90 model year R32 GTS-T and GTR's.

First question, I have learned there are 3 types of computers found in Skyline's. I was wondering which of the 3 are in the models I mentioned? The 3 I have read about are as follows: First type has two LEDs and five modes, second type has one LED and two modes and the thrid type has no LEDs, the output is done with the engine check light in the instrument cluster acting as a single LED ECU.

For the two turbo R32's, what sort of standalone systems are out there that offer relative ease of use. As plug-in play as possible. I know this has been discussed before, but Im still a bit lost. Does Apexi make a PFC, or can one from another engine be adapted? How programmable is the factory ECU? At what levels of power and modifications should a standalone be considered for the RB20DET?

My next question, how difficult is it to find a good used (or new if I can get it still) Electronic System Diagnosis Tester, in English if possible. I noticed there is a number in the R32 GTR service manual, EG1180-0000, would this be a Nissan part number? Is this devise compatiable with all RB ECCS's? And lastly, anybody have a clue roughly what this would cost new and or used?

My last question is in regards to the ATTESA and HICAS control moduals. I have yet to find this in the manual, but does anybody know the pin out wiring diagrams for these two?

Thank you much for any help!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39996-ecu-qs/
Share on other sites

At what levels of power and modifications should a standalone be considered
When your budget allows for it basically. The factory maps can nearly always be improved upon by an experienced tuner - every car of the same type leaves the factory with identical ECU maps, but each will have slightly different engine characteristics. This'll be exaggerated even more when you start doing exhausts/pods/boost or more, which takes the engine further and further from what the ECU was originally programmed for.

In a nutshell: You will more than likely gain power from a programmable ECU even in a stock car, particularly earlier models, but they really come into their own once you've started modifying.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39996-ecu-qs/#findComment-826105
Share on other sites

R32 ECU is reprogrammable, but by the sounds there wouldnt be too many workshops that know how to do this?

There is a power fc for R32 plugs straight in and comes preloaded with a base map so you can start and run the car without dramas.

The only Nissan consult I have seen cost the guy around $7K AUD second hand, so he told me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39996-ecu-qs/#findComment-826478
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...