R34 Handbrake Replacement/removal

[sleptema]

Noticed there wasn't a tutorial on replacing the handbrake as a set including the cable that runs down under the car, had to do it today and I took a few snaps to make it easier for anyone who has to do it.

Difficulty level: Easy, most boneheads can do this.

Time taken: Took me 2 hours having no idea what was required, can probably be acomplished in under an hour.

Parts needed: Phillips head screwdrivers, Torx tamper resistant T50 head (on a ratchet makes it a shitload easier), 3/8s ratchet with 4inch extension, 1/2 inch socket, 10mm socket, 10mm spanner, jack & stands OR hoist, threadlock (optional) safety glasses (recommended but not needed), and a new handbrake. I got mine from a mate with a half cut (Cheers Maytech!)

What to watch out for: Always take great care when working under a suspended vehicle (like when on the stands) and when jacking. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ASK SOMEONE. You don't want to destroy something under your car because you guessed where to jack it from.

Make special care you don't cross thread the bolts, you don't want to have to drill them out I can give you the tip.

Tips: My dad has always said "If you put in a bolt, tighten it." That way you don't second guess yourself, and you know it's right.

First start by leaning the 2 front seats forward and undoing the 2 screws in the side of the centre panel. Remove the ciggarette lighter and ash tray, behind the ash tray there is another screw. Unscrew your gear knob. (lefty loosy righty tighty =P) Pull up towards the rear of the gear shift boot on the panel, and it should pop out of place. Behind the ciggarette lighter is 2 plugs for power, one pulls out, the other has a clip that needs to be pushed before it can be pulled out. There are 2 more screws underneath the panel just lifted on each side of the surround, remove them and the whole centre panel should be completely free. With your handbrake raised, slide the panel towards the front of the car to get the boot over the handbrake.

Unplug the yellow airbag plug by pressing in the centre to release the clip. Take note that on the airbag and on the braket below "FRONT ->" should be labelled. Using the T50 TR head, undo the bolts, they will be tight as they have been threadlocked, and remove the lower bracket using your 10mm socket. Beneath the removed brackets, undo the 2 bolts, and remove the 2 gold bolts holding your handbrake in place using your 1/2 inch. On drivers side of the handbrake, there will be a small bracket (which detects whether your handbrake is engaged or not on the dash, mine is also connected to my turbo timer), use a screwdriver to remove. The handbrake should be completely free. To the passenger side of the handbrake there is a 10mm nylock nut on a thread, which is used for adjustment and will be explained in more detail later. Completely undo this, and slide the thread out towards the rear of the vehicle. This is just to create some slack to make it easier to work under the car. I hope your car is in gear or chocked! =P

Chock both the front wheels, and jack the rear of your car up and put it on stands. I highly recommend NOT working under it whist only jacked, you need to have it on stands. Make sure before you go under your car you give the car a little push to make sure it isn't going to fall on you whist underneath. As you can see, I had to drive up on bricks to be able to get my jack underneath because it is too low. Put on your safetys if you have them (you'll thank me later), and take your ratchet with 1/2 inch socket & extension under your car. Directly above the tailshaft is a clip that is connected to both rear brakes, I hope you realise how the handbrake mechanism works now. Following the brake line back 100mm on the drivers side, undo the nut that holds one of the lines on. There shouldn't be much tension, and should be easy to replace, this is just to create some slack to make it easier to work. It doesn't need to be done, but it helped me. This is where big hands have a disadvantage. On the handbrake cable again, there are 2 slots, both on perpendicular angles to the brake lines. To remove this, you need to turn the bracket 90 degrees to line up the brake line and slot, then push up on the pin that sits inside to release. Do this to both sides and the handbrake cable should be completely free. Feed it back over the tailshaft, noting the way it was run and as far back into the car as you can go. Back inside the car, pull the old handbrake out and replace with the new. Again, make sure the thread with the 10mm nylock nut is completely loosened and hanging freely for some slack. Under the car, make sure (CRITICAL) you thread the cable the same way back over the tailshaft that is was originally run, you don't want it to be rubbing on the shaft and finding out you have to replace again in a weeks time cause your handbrake doesn't work. Put the 2 brake lines back inside the clip the same way you got them out (obviously reversed) and replace the nut holding the cable. You are now done underneath the car, but leave it in the air for the next part.

Bolt the new handbrake down, slide the adjustment thread back into position and bolt the engaging switch back onto the side. It doesn't hurt to take a second to turn your ignition on (car does not need to be started) and make sure the (!) light is illuminating on the dash when the handbrake is lifted slightly. (before the first click) Your airbag light with be on as well, just ignore it, it is just because the plug is out. Tighten the nylock nut on the thread, pull on the cable to relieve the slack so you know where to tighten to. Using a second person if you have one available, get them to spin one of the rear wheels, and it should be moving freely. Pull up 3 clicks on your handbrake and while the other person is still spinning the wheel, tighten the nut until the wheel begins to grab making it hard to spin. Release the handbrake back to 'off' and make sure the wheel can still spin freely, and again, while the person is turning the wheel, slowly click up the notches. On the 1st notch, there should be minimal change, on the 2nd, it should start to grab, and on the 3rd it should be grabbing hard. You should be able to easily click 2 more notches. Make sure you test both rear wheels to make sure they are both working.

Replace all the panels, plugs, bolts and screws, lower your car, and you should be all done. Before you drive away, engage your handbrake to where you would normally have it, and stall it in 1st gear. This should test whether it is hard enough to stop your car.

If there is anything I have missed, or I am wrong about, feel free to post and I will update the tutorial.

Hope I helped!