Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Bov Problems- Can Someone Help!

EARMUFF

By EARMUFF,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

EARMUFF Enthusiast

EARMUFF

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I just starting having a problem wit my BOV. It's a turbosmart one. The car makes that fluttering sound now. When I rev it under the hood, I can see that it isn't opening. The car is running fine tho. No leaks around it that I can notice. any idea how I can fix this? Do I jus get a new one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400288-rb25-bov-problems-can-someone-help/
Share on other sites
hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

BOV is not designed to open unless there is a presence of surge pressure. Assume there is:

Firstly check and make sure the vacuum source to the BOV is after the throttle body.

If it is, then adjust the valve pressure generally controlled by a spring, like Peter said above.

Occasionally on a brand new BOV the thick oil sprayed onto the valve stiffens causing it to seize, use a wood stick genitally press in the valve and let it bounces back few times till unstuck or spray some WD40.

EARMUFF Enthusiast

EARMUFF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The tension is backed off all the way. Ive had this one on there for a few years and haven't adjusted it at all. When I took the car out yesterday it was fine, but when I drove home it wasn't working. Ive been told to try pulling it apart and cleaning it. It's a turbosmart dual port one. Anybody had any experience with doin this?

marto184 Collaborator

marto184

Posted
Posted

i had the same issue with my blitz one. You should pull the slide out and run some wet and dry paper around it (1200 grit) then get a socket the same size as the slide and move the slide up and down in the bov. Seemed to take about 10 times for mine to free up. Give it a go.

EARMUFF Enthusiast

EARMUFF

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorted guys. Lol I called up turbosmart. They told me how to fix it. I took the bov off and undid the cap all the way till it came off. The spring poped out. I pushed hard on the piston coz it was jammed. Once it popped out you could see along the side of it, the spot where it was seizing. I jus used a bit of kero to clean all the crap off it and re-lubed the piston wit wd40 till it slid freely. Put it all back together and it's fine!!

According to turbosmart you should do this at least every 6 months. They even give you a video. Here's the link if anyone's interested. Cheers guys

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/technical-articles/looking-after-your-bov-or-bpv/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...