Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey folks

so today i took all the intercooler, pipeing, hosing and bov's off the car, to reveal that the hole cut under the battery for the intercooler pipeing has been poorly done.

I have been told that on R32 gtr's this hole come stock standard, therfor you cannot be defected for it ??

As the pics show, someone has cut the area out, made the hole slightly bigger/bodgier n then only tac welded the peice back in place, and just slapped paint over it, it probably had 10 MIG tac welds holding it in place.

The car was complied after import and has been roadworthy'd twice once in NSW and once in VIC and this was never noticed.

I have owned the car since it was imported.

The pics were taken before i took a thick 1mm chunk of paint off the whole lot, looks like they just got a paintbrush and slapped paint over the bodgy job. After the paint was all scraped back to the original white paint, you could easily see only maximum of 10 or so tac welds holding the plate in place.

I plan to fix this up, weld the peice back in properly and grind it all back down. By trade im a sheet metal fabricator so fixing this up is easily done.

In the engine bay i was thinking of getting some either 1.6mm or 2mm plate and covering the area around the hole where its allready cut and recutting a new hole in the 2mm sheet, that way it looks neat and is strengthened.

Can anyone tell me if i can be defected for this ? obviously after i start welding im guna need an engineers cert to show its strong and been done properly. But thats only 100% necessary to get the engineers cert if the cops make me do so, correct ? Because ill do a bloody good job and itll be very neat. Hardly noticeable maybe only noticable to a GTR enthusiest..

Whats your opinions about this ? keen to hear others thoughts and opinions on this

cheers

post-58667-0-90622200-1337590758_thumb.jpg post-58667-0-67648800-1337590801_thumb.jpg post-58667-0-12138000-1337590837_thumb.jpg

post-58667-0-39017400-1337590877_thumb.jpg

THIS LAST PIC IS LOOKING FROM IN THE WHEEL WELL. post-58667-0-71537500-1337590944_thumb.jpg

Edited by r32gtrv-spec

gotRICE? - deffintly not a gtst/gtr conversion as behind the right hand headlight where the other intercooler hoses pop thru the chassis is genuine to fit a GTR, not just a dodgy hole cut - IS THERE ANY OTHER WAYS TO TELL IF THE CHASSIS IS FROM A GTST ?

i got no idea why someone has made such a mess with it, all i can assume is perhaps that spot rusted out and/or was replaced poorly with a dodgy cut out peice from another car.. ??

if someone did do a gtst/gtr conversion, the chassis number is for a GTR - im almost tempted to rub back the paint on/around the chassis number, to see if anyone has cut/welded in the area around the chassis number

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...