Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have a Mr30 with a Rb25det etc R200 diff with a detroit lokka in it and its the hardest car I have owned to keep under control in a slide.

Is it the diff or suspension or just thats what 30s do?

I have replaced all the rubbers in the rear Koni shocks in the rear set near hard. I have a S13 front end to install and coil overs all-round I hope this helps as it feels like the car is out to get me every time I put it in a slide.

Its possible I have just lost my talent but I'm hoping not.

Any advice etc would be appreciated

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400912-hard-to-handle-mr30/
Share on other sites

Double check your alignment, front and rear.

Detroits have particular drive characteristics. That would be a factor - do you know how they actually work, and what to expect from one as you power on and then modulate the power?

Also how much steering angle is available in a MR30 front end?

If u been driving silvias all ur life then yea bit different. Lol i found mine when i had the 25 in it waz awsome.it loved it. Diff plays a major part so may take a bit of getting used to. Get i low some sway bar upgrades and good w/ a and itl be alot better. They love to skid just need to change how u drive them. Btw with s13 upgrade u will get more lock

  • 2 weeks later...

I found when i had mine with the rb20 it was like a lead tipped arrow. very hard to keep balanced and most of the time its ass would swing out way too far.

problem is that the rb is very heavy on the front so you need a good suspension set up to make it handle best.

I had stiff konis and kings in the rear but 90/10's on the front wich was half my problem. perfect for drags and high speed freeway but try and drift it and was

usually 90 degrees+ to the footpath followed by slamming on the brakes.

so the s13 coilover option with a proper spring rate will help you out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
×
×
  • Create New...