Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have a Mr30 with a Rb25det etc R200 diff with a detroit lokka in it and its the hardest car I have owned to keep under control in a slide.

Is it the diff or suspension or just thats what 30s do?

I have replaced all the rubbers in the rear Koni shocks in the rear set near hard. I have a S13 front end to install and coil overs all-round I hope this helps as it feels like the car is out to get me every time I put it in a slide.

Its possible I have just lost my talent but I'm hoping not.

Any advice etc would be appreciated

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400912-hard-to-handle-mr30/
Share on other sites

Double check your alignment, front and rear.

Detroits have particular drive characteristics. That would be a factor - do you know how they actually work, and what to expect from one as you power on and then modulate the power?

Also how much steering angle is available in a MR30 front end?

If u been driving silvias all ur life then yea bit different. Lol i found mine when i had the 25 in it waz awsome.it loved it. Diff plays a major part so may take a bit of getting used to. Get i low some sway bar upgrades and good w/ a and itl be alot better. They love to skid just need to change how u drive them. Btw with s13 upgrade u will get more lock

  • 2 weeks later...

I found when i had mine with the rb20 it was like a lead tipped arrow. very hard to keep balanced and most of the time its ass would swing out way too far.

problem is that the rb is very heavy on the front so you need a good suspension set up to make it handle best.

I had stiff konis and kings in the rear but 90/10's on the front wich was half my problem. perfect for drags and high speed freeway but try and drift it and was

usually 90 degrees+ to the footpath followed by slamming on the brakes.

so the s13 coilover option with a proper spring rate will help you out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...