Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there a friend at work son just bought a 98 stagea AWD rb25det and one of the rear wheel bearing's decided to go so he took it to the machanic to get fixed and the bloke said that the center bearing in the tail shaft is gone as well the diff pinion cause the diff is winding so ive been on goggle to find out more about stagea's and where he can get a rear diff center and no good so if you wagan fans can help me i would be much apperciated

cheers andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401206-98-stagea-rear-diff-help/
Share on other sites

Are you sure you have diagnosed the problems correctly?

You are saying you need one of the rear wheel bearings (do you know which side)

and the diff is whining and tha'ts caused by the pinion bearing (sure about that?)

and the centre bearing on the driveshaft is stuffed?

if you want to replace the whole rear end someone on this forum is proabably wrecking a Stagea now but you should price up the bearings first and if you're paying for the labour the total cost of the job. A whole new rear end could be the go if you get it at the right price (they are cheap as over here but freight would be a killer).

I have never heard of the centre hanger bearing flogging out but I suppose its possible. I would do all the rest first and see if there is still a problem. then again price up the bearings and labour v a second hand driveshaft.

i dont no which side for the wheel bearing was gone but the machanic has fix that and with the pinion bearing and the tail shaft thats what the machanic told him and gave a price to fix is 800 ill find out more about the problem. (should of done that first lol)

IVE GOT THE DETAILS!!!!!!! with the diff the machanic said its a suspect sound and mite be the pinion bearing. And just what you said master jdoggy NOT CHEAP hes got a qoute for 1600 to fix the center bearing and the diff wiying, and it was the passanger rear wheel bearing he had a blow out and put those shitty 80k space saver wheel on. so if you have one of these throw it away!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...