Jump to content
SAU Community

V35 Fuel Economy

chopra
 Share

Recommended Posts

grae35 Collaborator

grae35

Posted
Posted

Sounds pretty normal to me. I do much the same balance of driving and get similar figures.

Won't hurt to check your two rear plugs as these seem to be the most affected by km's. Also see if you have any oil in the plug tubes around the insulators.

They have a habit of leaking around the rocker cover gasket.

Check your air cleaner element too. Easy to see with a torch through the power duct at front above radiator with bonnet popped.

rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted (edited)

What ur talking about, my R34 is giving me 280kms on 55litres which comes to roughly 19.6 litres/100kms which is driving me nuts! Is this the most horrible fuel economy on SAU?? This was the last fill-up. Before that it came to about 16L/100kms, these were mostly highway kms.

Stock turbo, short distance stop-start driving with the occassional few second squirt to 5-7k rpm. And this is even after my tune more than a year ago; before the tune, the economy was more or less the same, I thought the tune would fix it but it didnt, but power and driveablility is a LOT better though.

Edited by rondofj
sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

I get around 11.5L/100km in my 6MT, all city driving (not peak hour), and the occasional heavy right foot. Which is about the same as the OP is getting with a lot of highway driving.. so I would say it sounds a bit high..

I haven't taken it on a highway run yet.

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

I normally get around 13l/100km but that includes a lot of sitting around idling with the a/c on for my work. But when I did a decent highway trip from Adelaide to Shepparton last year for the SAU Nationals I got 8.8L/100km!!! And I have all sorts of mods and am making 183rwkw.

rayh1 Explorer

rayh1

Posted
Posted

2001 V35 300Gt

I get between 11.5.and 13 kms per litre on the highways

One thing I have found is that putting it into 5th gear using tiptronic gives better economy on the highway

Now i drive highways mostly in that gear not using the D setting on the auto, only going into D when overtaking

interfooler Rising Star

interfooler

Posted
Posted

I normally get around 13l/100km but that includes a lot of sitting around idling with the a/c on for my work. But when I did a decent highway trip from Adelaide to Shepparton last year for the SAU Nationals I got 8.8L/100km!!! And I have all sorts of mods and am making 183rwkw.

Roughly the same as what I'm getting. 12l/100km city driving, 8.5l/100km freeway. Pretty damn good for a performance car I'd say.

I was getting 8.6km/l before Z tube 9.4km/l after, 2003 A/T . Dont know why Nissan use km/l instead of L/100km :unsure:

Cuz it's an import and it uses the Japanese format. AUDM Nissan's all use L/100km

OP, I think your fuel consumption is slightly high...

chopra Apprentice

chopra

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thx for the replies guys,

sounds like my fuel economy on the freeway is preety high,

so looks like i have to check my spark plugs and might have to get a tune for a better economy.

Anyone know a good place in adelaide to get the tune done?

and any other suggestions to improve this economy

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

The other big driver of economy is your O2 sensors - when I changed mine in my old 230rwkw R34 it made a huge difference. But sadly the V35 has 4 of the buggers, and they are not cheap.

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

I would think the odometer method would be more accurate, provided you use most of the tank between fills. If you are only using 1/4 of a tank then refilling, then the different 'full cut out' points on each bowser can throw out the figure. Maybe check your odometer with a GPS or something (one that can do distance calculations).

rayh1 Explorer

rayh1

Posted
Posted

Hmmm. D in auto uses 5th above 50kmph all the time unless accelerating.

I thought so too, however try going from D to tiptronic at any time on open road, more often than not it translates across into 4th gear

and there is usually a corresponding drop in revs too from D into 5th. Simple fact is that it gives me on average about 2kms/per litre improvement

rayh1 Explorer

rayh1

Posted
Posted

i have 2 different answers to this topic

250gt with basic mods and 285/25/20 rear tyres

13.5L per 100km (calculated from odometer vs refill amount).

the tv says i do 11.9L per 100km.

Dont know which reading is correct.

Have you had your speedo recalibrated, the larger tyres may have thrown your speedo reading out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Whoops!
×
×
  • Create New...