Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm curious why Japanese cop cars need a screen to stop the sirens blowing off!

Siren actually appears to be located below drivers side headlight :D

As for the lights, i agree... surely by putting a shield there, they are compromising the aerodynamics of the car, which means that they cant go as fast as they would be able to if the screen wasn't there.

They should just bolt the lightbars to the roof/roof rack, like all the other Police forces across the world do!

oh... and how many light bars did they lose before they decided that this was a good idea?

I've seen these screens on some really old Japanese Police cars. (70's)

I've seen these screens on some really old Japanese Police cars. (70's)

I think you've answered the question yourself there. Its probably done because its always been done for decades. Thats how a lot of stuff works in japan. So much bureaucracy that even obvious stuff is overlooked because a piece of paper says different. I would expect that the police body in Japan is one of the most bureaucratic institutions in the country, so change is very difficult(read impossible). You see a lot of stuff like this in Japan. Its always been done, why question it?

As for the lights, i agree... surely by putting a shield there, they are compromising the aerodynamics of the car
They're only compromising already compromised aerodynamics... (ie: having the lights on top).

Anyways, I believe having a flap there to direct wind over the lights actually helps rather than compromises.

I remember one guy who said that that flap thingy was there so that a head-up display could reflect back info to the driver of the cop car... :confused:

I remember one guy who said that that flap thingy was there so that a head-up display could reflect back info to the driver of the cop car... :confused:

I've heard that too, but it just sounded plain wrong.

...i don't think they had head-up display technology in the '70s ;)

I'm happy with the wind deflector theory, and I'll stick with that one :P

  • 2 weeks later...

to add a bit onto the gaijin explaination...

Jin is a suffix that means 'persons' or 'people', so Australians are literally 'Australia-jin', japanese are 'Nihonjin' (Nihon = Japan), english are Eigo-jin... add 'Gai' which (afaik) 'outside', and you have gaijin, meaning 'outside people'...

I'm doing japanese as a subject for my uni degree, which I'm doing externally at the uni I work for... I've always been facinated by the jap culture, and learning the language is a complete eye opener... sounds a bit fruity, but it's very rewarding... but I'm still learning, and some of it is challenging... Nihongo ga sukoshi hanashimasu. :)

I'm hoping to get an IT job in Japan, but I'm being realistic... from the stories of racism and hyper-compeditive job markets, it may be difficult.

Edit: Some more on the gaijin thing... you've got 'gaiteki' which translates to both 'outside' and 'foreign enemy'... so I guess you could say that (like a lot of stuff in japanese) it has several similar meanings... outsider, foreigner, alien, etc.

  • 4 months later...

I lived in Osaka in 2000 for a year and had heaps of fun drifting almost daily at Nanko and other little wharfs along the bay. Back then the cops just did the old drive past and then u wait till they go home. Returning to Osaka last year I was shocked to find many barriers and gates installed at my favourite haunts. Oviously the police are making a move on drift in the city. Of cource certain areas are still great but it may not be long before mountains are the normal drift site. Nanko minami is basically shut down now with the road barriers in place.

Police and governments may be changing their attitudes in Osaka.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...