Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I posted this topic on G35 driver and i thought i'd post it here too, if anyone has done the bolt replacement in the lower rear control arm PLEASE let me know your help would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the post on G35Driver -

Okay so i have a 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 350GT Coupe, as most of you would know it's the equivalent of the G35 Coupe.

I purchased the car a few months ago privately, at the time i was told of the problem but was assured it was a minor issue and i even got a full inspection from a mechanic who confirmed it was nothing to worry about for a while.

3 Months on and the problem is getting worse. What's happening is when i turn, i hear a creaking noise in the front left suspension (which i have confirmed is the problem as there is a stripped bolt right through the lower rear control arm) and it's driving me insane. The roads are VERY bad where i live, so this problem is getting worse quick and i need it resolved ASAP.

So now i am going to Nissan first thing Monday to find out the order number for the bolt and do it from home, i just wanted to know if anyone has replaced this bolt before and could help me out.

Thank you!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402142-suspension-issues-please-help/
Share on other sites

Sorry, this is a bit confusing- is it the front suspension, or the rear?

Hope you sit down when Nissan tell you the price, if its what I'm thinking it is. Get a Picture- tells 1000 words as they say.

Search for superpro bushes. they do a range for V35s now, and should be able to get the suspension bush. Its genreally not a "bolt" thats an issue, its the rubber around it.

It's confusing for me too, when i originally took it to Nissan the mechanic was very confusing and sent me to the panel beaters to get it done (i went there and the guy laughed at the dick head mechanic for sending me to him)

I'm near 100% sure it's the bolt itself, the bottom of it is completely stripped but it's very hard to see up there as I've only got a jack.

Ok, so I had a quick look on mine. That's the bit that goes up and supports the bottom of the shock. I'm not sure if you could press that bolt out or if it's in there permanently.

If it was mine, I'd just get a wrecker part off z33 or v35, just the whole bit. But by all means speak to Nissan if that's your plan. Make sure the rubber bush hasn't flogged out since its been moving round.

There are a few bushes that flog out on these cars, and most people don't realise.

Ok, so I had a quick look on mine. That's the bit that goes up and supports the bottom of the shock. I'm not sure if you could press that bolt out or if it's in there permanently.

If it was mine, I'd just get a wrecker part off z33 or v35, just the whole bit. But by all means speak to Nissan if that's your plan. Make sure the rubber bush hasn't flogged out since its been moving round.

There are a few bushes that flog out on these cars, and most people don't realise.

Thanks for your help man, if Nissan decide to charge me an arm and a leg for the part then i'll go down that track. Yeah when i originally bought the car with the RACQ inspection the inspector commented that all bushes were fine.

If its the bolt that's stripped, then youll need the replacement. But just so you know, that bush is know for getting destroyed as well. Might be a bush issue, might be a stripped thread issue. Just get under there and find out. I reckon 50% or more cars are driving round with the bush not 100%.

It's not the bolt in the hub yeah, it's the other end that bolts to the rail?

At least you have pin pointed it, good luck mate.

Yeah that's the plan for today get under it and double check. In that link you gave me with the diagram, where it has the part #15 it's actually the "king pin" bolt on the other end that's the problem. Yeah i agree i have heard that before bushes getting worn easily apparently there's some high quality ones that can last 100,000KM.

As I said earlier - superpro for the bushes

And you can get improved castor bushes for better handling :yes:

But unless you have a press, its not a diy.

I bet someone has gone to replace the bush, and through f it, too hard, but it back on and cross threaded the bolt.

I can get access to one so i should be sweet. Yeah i brought it up with the previous owner last night and he claimed to have no idea but you never know.. I'll see how i go with Nissan, just realised tomorrows a public holiday and i'm back to work Tuesday so it won't be done for ages f**k.

Nissan don't sell many of the bushes or links separate - the lower control arm itself (no. 10 on the pic) is a consumable part, and they do not sell the shocker bush or main bush - you have to buy a whole arm (rrp $500)! I bought some Nolathane bushes and pressed them in last week (see photo below). When I pulled the lower control arm off I realised that the lower ball joints are stuffed too - and guess what? Nissan don't sell them either - they only sell the whole Number 1 on the pic assembly at $1k a pop. Luckily I found some ball joints online for $60 per pair delivered.

For the record, by my memory (given had the car apart last week) our 2 wheel drive V35s don't have that No. 15 part! Maybe I am wrong though.

I am willing to bet that your noise is either the lower control arm bushes or your ball joints.

post-669-0-53987500-1339395562_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-42416800-1339395564_thumb.jpg

And reading through your post again, I think you might be talking about the sway bar end link where it bolts onto the lower control arm. To fit these properly you need to lower the car onto bricks or something to lift up the upper control arm to the sway bar end link, to make the holes line up. If you just try to screw the bolt through without it being lined up perfectly, you shave off the bolt thread. This is what it sounds like has been done to yours. Luckily these are a common part between pretty much every Nissan, and are cheap. I replaced mine a while back on my R34 and they cost stuff all - maybe $50 a pair from memory.

For the record, by my memory (given had the car apart last week) our 2 wheel drive V35s don't have that No. 15 part! Maybe I am wrong though.

Memory might be a bit hazy then - its there on your car.We came to the conclusion that the stripped bolt was the one in the Chassis (thats what OP confirmed) at the rear end of #15.If that is the cause of his clonk/squeak - I'm not that confident. There are a lot of things under there that can squeak! And I bet more than one set of bushes are history, after him saying that he drives on very rough roads.

Thankyou for your replies helping me get to the bottom of this, i took some photo's today of the bolt that needs replacing. I've checked ball joints they're all good.

My big issue is that the top of the bolt is tucked away behind the panel you can see in the first image, making it impossible to get to without removing the panels. This is becoming a really f**king annoying drama that no one in my town seems to know how to fix.

2f07imd.jpg

zlrbs4.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Been reading through all these replies again, it's the lower control arm bushes that are farked. The compression rod bushes are worn too. I've ordered the comp rod bushes off ebay for $25 and im about to buy the lower rear control arm bushes for both left and right suspension. Now after changing all 3 of these bushes i should be sweet, oh and knock that stripped bolt out and replace it.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...