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haha yeah but you can buy 2000 model gtts, s15s, subarus for 12k at starting price, evo 7 starting price is over 20k.

they saw that if they made it 4 door and made it more daily theyd make a f**k load of money, hence the rarity of them and the common ness of other rexies haha

man ive had many beers, i got the dog on my lap under a blanket together watching better homes and gardens, doesnt get better for a friday night man

Emma is a cover huh? You are so fkn gay! Lol

Look at this S15, shes asking $16k and its clearly been in a front ender. Look at the horrible alignment of the bonnet and drivers side headlight.

" Owned since new, Its in perfect original condition, its just had some paint chip touch up work done to ensure you get a car that looks as good as it drives."

Yeah right...

2dhsmsz.jpg

And the ad

http://www.carsales....82+903&find=s15 200sx spec s |CarAll&silo=Stock&num=15&sort=default

Dude my bonnet etc is aligned crap because I've hard it apart a few times and too lazy too put it together properly... So your not always gunna be right....

PS - Skyline forum, not many care about Silvia's (Benji) or rexys (Zali-Rad)

Lolz

Dude my bonnet etc is aligned crap because I've hard it apart a few times and too lazy too put it together properly... So your not always gunna be right....

PS - Skyline forum, not many care about Silvia's (Benji) or rexys (Zali-Rad)

Lolz

Yeah, but if you look at that one, the bonnet is lined up perfectly on the left, but actually overlaps the headlight on the right.

Meaning the car has probably been hit on the right and it hasnt pulled out properly. So the body is what is causing the bonnet to be out of alignment.

Speaking of train wrecks, theres a blue S15 on carsales at the moment for 16k that was in a rear end accident where the boot was in line with the rear window (glass shattered etc). Hate to think how many kg's of bog that thing is carrying. No one has bought it yet thank god

EDIT: just read the "this is a skylines forum" part hahaha.

haha how is that gay? what are you doing cool-mo-D?

i like learning about all the renos and gardening

yeah that doesnt mean anything benji haha. you know normal "enthusiasts" actually work on their cars :P if i was doing alot of work on my car id probably take the bonnet off too.

Dude my bonnet etc is aligned crap because I've hard it apart a few times and too lazy too put it together properly... So your not always gunna be right....

PS - Skyline forum, not many care about Silvia's (Benji) or rexys (Zali-Rad)

Lolz

so if you dont have a skyline your out of the club??

you havent been to many events with the club have you :P

haha how is that gay? what are you doing cool-mo-D?

i like learning about all the renos and gardening

yeah that doesnt mean anything benji haha. you know normal "enthusiasts" actually work on their cars :P if i was doing alot of work on my car id probably take the bonnet off too.

Fark all.... Watching some shit on TV with the dogs lol (wondering if Chookie has killed himself via coilover yet)....

My bonnets been on 4 or 5 times now, guards, lights and bar too, no damage anywhere

Fark all.... Watching some shit on TV with the dogs lol (wondering if Chookie has killed himself via coilover yet)....

My bonnets been on 4 or 5 times now, guards, lights and bar too, no damage anywhere

Your 34 looks straight as.

Yeah, but if you look at that one, the bonnet is lined up perfectly on the left, but actually overlaps the headlight on the right.

Meaning the car has probably been hit on the right and it hasnt pulled out properly. So the body is what is causing the bonnet to be out of alignment.

Speaking of train wrecks, theres a blue S15 on carsales at the moment for 16k that was in a rear end accident where the boot was in line with the rear window (glass shattered etc). Hate to think how many kg's of bog that thing is carrying. No one has bought it yet thank god

EDIT: just read the "this is a skylines forum" part hahaha.

Gaz's S15 has been hit hard twice in 2 seperate accidents BOTH while he was stationary and the car was repaired 100% with pics from start to finish and full Respray... $13k worth of work, soooo what's the problem? I DARE you to bring up the subject of how his nostalgia vehicle is worth nothing lol...... Oh that would bring Lulz :laugh:

Gaz's S15 has been hit hard twice in 2 seperate accidents BOTH while he was stationary and the car was repaired 100% with pics from start to finish and full Respray... $13k worth of work, soooo what's the problem? I DARE you to bring up the subject of how his nostalgia vehicle is worth nothing lol...... Oh that would bring Lulz :laugh:

Nah, thats okay because a vehicle will be fine when repairs have been done properly haha.

When you cant see your reflection in a rear quarter panel, you know something hasnt been fixed correctly.

I've inspected some S15's with absolutely cringeworthy repairs done to them.

hahaha yeah but if it doesnt have over 300kw and 250+ wide tyres youll hate it so you dont really get a say :P

Dude I missed this post!!

I give you an A+

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  • Latest Posts

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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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