Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks man, appreciate it!!!!

Benji real cars fit Pads and Rotors..... Wtf is a hardware kit? Are you fitting a bench vice to your control arm?

The shims and clips things are the hardware kit...

Heres a hardware kit for S13.

FRSport_240SXBrakeKit_512422538844a0b4a3c5cddb.jpg

Once funds permit, I'm going to be ordering a vented carbon fibre bonnet from japan

tumblr_m92mcy3ULe1rohi97o1_1280.jpg

Not really in a hurry for rims as Ive got a pretty much fresh set of KU36's on that set of rims atm.

And coilovers etc are going in in January. From where its at, only needs to be lowered 10mm in the rear and then the control arms will be parallel all round. So I dont negatively affect handling, I'd need to spend more money on things like roll center adjustors if I decided to go any lower than that.

yep - welcome to the joys of gtr ownership.

nice price on the 9's - thats basically what i paid for my -5's (which are usually a few hundred cheaper)

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Come over to WA and keep me company :-)

What is the work situation like over there?

Could realllly consider it in the new year.

As for car stuff I saw Paul today and got the motor back on track. Also picked up a nice shiny catch can/washer bottle

Mjh, I washed my car today and just polished it afterwards....

do you have any tips on detailing?

Best thing you can get for detailing is a Concours 900 RO kit.

Car looks good as is just get a good sealer and wax to help protect the finish. Check the detailing thread and also check out the Waxit site for quality waxes etc

What is the work situation like over there?

Could realllly consider it in the new year.

As for car stuff I saw Paul today and got the motor back on track. Also picked up a nice shiny catch can/washer bottle

Work's pretty plentifuly, lowest unemployment rate in the country.

i know that catch can, its really shinny :-)

Did you get a water pump? Paul kept hold of my spare N1....

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Work's pretty plentifuly, lowest unemployment rate in the country.

i know that catch can, its really shinny :-)

Did you get a water pump? Paul kept hold of my spare N1....

Yeah just went with a VL pump.

N1 pumps are more for higher revving motors aren't they? EG drags tracks etc

I'm giving some serious thought to a different job.

The one I have now is good but not enough work or pay

Some guys manage to do 12 hour days regardless of how busy or quite it is an I seem to get the easy short run most days

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hoxton-park/cars/nissan-skyline-gtr-must-see-goin-cheap-1995-model/1009072657

14k maybe less could be mine this weekend.

thoughts, fears, loan??? haha

I could very well be wrong but don't GTR's have a BNR prefix for the chassis number?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...