Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I bought a set of Stillen Sway Bars for my 2004 Skyline 350GT V35 Coupe and it is currently at Centreline Suspension getting installed. The guy told me it doesn't fit and asked if the sway bars came with bushings, but it didn't cause Stillen states that it can use stock bushings. The sway bar thickness are 35mm fronts and 22mm rears, other brands have different thicknesses. I wonder if the guy actually unbotled the frame mounts instead of trying to squeeze the sways bar throught the hole.

Has anyone encountered this problem before with sway bars, particularly Stillen? If this is a legit problem where can I find bushings to make them fit?

Cheers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402404-stillen-sway-bar-problem/
Share on other sites

There is HEAPS of latitude in the stock bushings - they don't need to close back together completely when done up. Make sure he has undone the stock bushings, like you said. Why on earth would you pay a workshop to fit these - it is the easiest job in the world to do yourself :D

There is HEAPS of latitude in the stock bushings - they don't need to close back together completely when done up. Make sure he has undone the stock bushings, like you said. Why on earth would you pay a workshop to fit these - it is the easiest job in the world to do yourself :D

I was getting coilovers installed and I thought might as well get the sway bars installed too at the same time. I'm not confident enough to fit coilovers, but now in hindersight I should of just fit the sway bars myself and save money, which ended up in nothing and costed me. :(

Well, they guy explained to me that the stock bushings were 32/33mm and it didnt fit in the mounting bracket. At least I know what I should be looking for now and also to check the measurements myself before trying to get stuff installed. I called up Pedders and they can order in some 35mm bushings, but I might end up getting Energy Suspension bushings instead. I'm just wondering if all the sway bar bushings are the same size on the outside and the inside (where the sway bars fit through) diamater is the only variable size? I don't wanna be caught off again by details.

Anyways, I got the coilovers installed. Minor annoyance with the rear adjuster cables, but majorly annoyed now that I need to fix the rear cambers back to stock degrees. The guy said he put it full positive with the stocks to counter the negative camber, but there is quite a bit of it still. I have to find adjustable rear camber arms that can shorten to pull the bottom side of the wheel back in. Anyone with suggestions, experiences or advice, please help it be much appreciated.

Cheers...

Hey all,

I bought a set of Stillen Sway Bars for my 2004 Skyline 350GT V35 Coupe and it is currently at Centreline Suspension getting installed. The guy told me it doesn't fit and asked if the sway bars came with bushings, but it didn't cause Stillen states that it can use stock bushings. The sway bar thickness are 35mm fronts and 22mm rears, other brands have different thicknesses. I wonder if the guy actually unbotled the frame mounts instead of trying to squeeze the sways bar throught the hole.

Has anyone encountered this problem before with sway bars, particularly Stillen? If this is a legit problem where can I find bushings to make them fit?

Cheers...

There is HEAPS of latitude in the stock bushings - they don't need to close back together completely when done up. Make sure he has undone the stock bushings, like you said. Why on earth would you pay a workshop to fit these - it is the easiest job in the world to do yourself :D

The 35mm D bush Pedders is supplying is most likely a universal D bush, as there are only a couple of aftermarket bushes that will fit in the OEM D bracket. Superpro does a 33mm, I think. Are they supplying a D bracket as well?

Go the SPC rear camber arms - I have them and cannot fault them. There is a current thread in the V35 section about them.

Yeah I've been looking at them, so it will be either SPC or SPL Pro. Would I need rear toe arms or anything else as well to get the camber back to stock?

The 35mm D bush Pedders is supplying is most likely a universal D bush, as there are only a couple of aftermarket bushes that will fit in the OEM D bracket. Superpro does a 33mm, I think. Are they supplying a D bracket as well?

The guy at Centreline Suspension already had a look for D bushings for me including the Superpro catalog in order to get the sway bars installed. He said that 33mm are the biggest size in Australia...

Yeah I've been searching for 35mm D bushings, but I only find them as universal types. Hopefully they do fit, since its 'universal', so far only Pedder and Energy Suspension have 35mm diameter D bushings. I'm not sure about the Pedders supplying the D mounting brackets and Energy Suspension do supply D mounting brackets, but I'm not sure if it does come with or buy separately. I have been looking at the complete kit from Energy Suspension (http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=6264&Car_Type=G35&UID=2012061305401327.32.205.251) (http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17564.pdf). I wonder and assume that most of all the other aftermarket suspension parts are the same size as OE, cause if they are different then this complete kit may become redundant and it comes with OE size sway bar bushings, so I'm relucant to jump on it straight away. I might just get what I need now, rear camber arms, sway bar D bushings and mounting brackets.

G35 Driver has said that the size of the OE sway bars are 34mm (front) and 21mm (rears), can anyone confirm this? If so, I find it strange that the sway bars could not fit into the OE bushings, its only 1mm difference. Also, anyone know what size our mounting bracket size are? Energy suspension has two sizes, I presume it is the smaller size pictured on the left (http://energysuspension.com/universal-products/sway-bar-bushings.html).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...