Jump to content
SAU Community

Help! Fresh Rebuilt, Misfiring And Suddenly Cut Off

Mitsuboost30

By Mitsuboost30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mitsuboost30 Apprentice

Mitsuboost30

Posted
Posted (edited)

So let me give some background so theres enough information to make a proper assesment

full tank of gas been sitting for a year. recently put in gas treatment.

Did a fresh rebuilt

acl main and rod bearings

all new gaskets

n1 pump

my stock timing belt was in excellent condition so i reused it

Warmed oil up to go take the car out and seat the rings.

Pulled it out of the driveway and it started running rough

thought it could just be the gas so went on. as i went on coming to a stop i had to keep on the throttle so the car would not shut off.

Ran really rough so i turn around and procced to go home.

Pull it in the garage. and it is somewhat idleing on its own

Then out of no where it shuts off on its own like the power was cut. very abrupt.

I did have timing belt whine when the car was started, assuming it was alittle tight. but was told thats semi normal and would go away.

havent pulled the car apart in anyway. Its to late to do so.

Any ideas?

when it first happened my first thought was timing belt snapped. since the whine. But i dont think thats it after thinking logically. It just made me nervous as it happened so quick. No noise. Just cut off........ SIGGHHHH :/

Edited by Mitsuboost30
Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

CAS could be in the wrong position (retarded or advanced), need timing light to confirm it's set right.

I wouldn't trust fuel that's been sitting around for 1 year, I would barely trust it with my lawnmower.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

CAS could be in the wrong position (retarded or advanced), need timing light to confirm it's set right.

I wouldn't trust fuel that's been sitting around for 1 year, I would barely trust it with my lawnmower.

Yeah this

your marks may be lined up but that doesnt mean your timing is

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

A good timing light, there is a wire loop at the back of the engine to the left of the cam cover hoses. If it's a cheap nasty timing light you will need to plug straight into coil #1, otherwise the nasty timing light will just read double at the wire loop.

Mitsuboost30 Apprentice

Mitsuboost30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so im kind of happy and at the same time very upset...

hopeing with the immediatte shutoff that i didnt skip timing and of damage anything and HOPEFULLY it will just be cam replacement.

what you gents think

Kenna802 Experienced

Kenna802

Posted
Posted

I willing to bet that the timing belt is way too tight. Rule number 1 always never reuse the timing belt. If its like your fuel its sat there for a year as well. Setting base timing is different to adjusting timing when the car is running. Base timing is the three marks ( intake cam, exh cam and on Crankshaft) There are 3 notches you must set these to. To set tension of timing belt you must adjust the idler tensioner until its slightly lose and than spin the motor with the belt on a few times and the adjuster will go into the location that is correct for it. Tighten the adjuster and spin the crank a few times to make sure belt doesnt skip or the tensioner does not move. After that and fingers crossed no other damage has happened you reinsert the Cas and time it for 15 degress btc. I really hope you have not done any other damage as im guessing bent valves exhaust side :( :( :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...