Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So let me give some background so theres enough information to make a proper assesment

full tank of gas been sitting for a year. recently put in gas treatment.

Did a fresh rebuilt

acl main and rod bearings

all new gaskets

n1 pump

my stock timing belt was in excellent condition so i reused it

Warmed oil up to go take the car out and seat the rings.

Pulled it out of the driveway and it started running rough

thought it could just be the gas so went on. as i went on coming to a stop i had to keep on the throttle so the car would not shut off.

Ran really rough so i turn around and procced to go home.

Pull it in the garage. and it is somewhat idleing on its own

Then out of no where it shuts off on its own like the power was cut. very abrupt.

I did have timing belt whine when the car was started, assuming it was alittle tight. but was told thats semi normal and would go away.

havent pulled the car apart in anyway. Its to late to do so.

Any ideas?

when it first happened my first thought was timing belt snapped. since the whine. But i dont think thats it after thinking logically. It just made me nervous as it happened so quick. No noise. Just cut off........ SIGGHHHH :/

Edited by Mitsuboost30

CAS could be in the wrong position (retarded or advanced), need timing light to confirm it's set right.

I wouldn't trust fuel that's been sitting around for 1 year, I would barely trust it with my lawnmower.

CAS could be in the wrong position (retarded or advanced), need timing light to confirm it's set right.

I wouldn't trust fuel that's been sitting around for 1 year, I would barely trust it with my lawnmower.

Yeah this

your marks may be lined up but that doesnt mean your timing is

A good timing light, there is a wire loop at the back of the engine to the left of the cam cover hoses. If it's a cheap nasty timing light you will need to plug straight into coil #1, otherwise the nasty timing light will just read double at the wire loop.

so im kind of happy and at the same time very upset...

hopeing with the immediatte shutoff that i didnt skip timing and of damage anything and HOPEFULLY it will just be cam replacement.

what you gents think

I willing to bet that the timing belt is way too tight. Rule number 1 always never reuse the timing belt. If its like your fuel its sat there for a year as well. Setting base timing is different to adjusting timing when the car is running. Base timing is the three marks ( intake cam, exh cam and on Crankshaft) There are 3 notches you must set these to. To set tension of timing belt you must adjust the idler tensioner until its slightly lose and than spin the motor with the belt on a few times and the adjuster will go into the location that is correct for it. Tighten the adjuster and spin the crank a few times to make sure belt doesnt skip or the tensioner does not move. After that and fingers crossed no other damage has happened you reinsert the Cas and time it for 15 degress btc. I really hope you have not done any other damage as im guessing bent valves exhaust side :( :( :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R34DE as in R34 with an RB25DE? So did you get this? Or you planning to?  I'm not really sure what you're saying. 
    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
×
×
  • Create New...