Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am a tight ass and after getting quoted $800 to rebuild a set of Bilstein coilovers I want searching for a DIY option. Doesn't look too difficult, have to tap a schrader valve in the bottom of the shock to discharge/recharge the nitrogen pressure and require some sort of clamp to press the piston/shaft back in. DIY videos on youtube, pretty much the same process for most monotube shocks used on motorcycles and 4x4's.

Parts can be found here: www.gwracing.com.au

Top oil seal: $27 each (whole metal piece, including seals/plastics etc.)

Bottom plug(seperate oil/nitrogen): $20 each

Just had a quick look to get an idea, may need to replace the bit that goes around the valve(not sure what its called.) however I didn't look at the price. If anyone else recommends replacing anything else please let me know.

Also called RAD Motorcycle shock repairs and got quoted approximately $100 per pair assuming I supply the parts. They are in Brisbane. Was going to do it myself but at that price I may aswell leave it to someone who knows what they are doing.

Have not got this done yet but thought others may find this info usefull. I presume other places that do motorcycle shocks will do the same thing if you aren't located in Brisbane, have a ring around.

Works out around $400 from quotes, alot cheaper than the original quote I obtained.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402546-cheap-bilstein-rebuild/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...