Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Gezz I would of thought this would go.

Come on drifters you know you want a light bonnet, it will give you more speed, angle and smoke, trust me.

The chicks love em too. (If you a chick the dudes love em.)

I will get a bonnet box from a crash repair and pack it up then take it to work for e-go to pick it up.

How easy is that?

I'll do all the work this end and you can organise the courrier, try e-go they seem to be good and cheap.

Pick up from Lonsdale SA Business Address - 5160

A bonnet box is bonnet size and it is shit load lighter than a standard bonnet. I would say about 15kgs.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Still for Sale

I have packed it in a bonnet box and waiting for payment, but, buyer has changed his mind.

I was quoted by e-go $150 to Tasmania if that helps

It measures 1550 x 1450 x 150 and weighs about 15kg if you want to get a quote. Pick up from 5160.

Cheers

Im keen (and from tas lol) ,was that posted to north or south tas? . So $450 on my doorstep? (i'll take it if you can wait till Friday for payment?)

edit , i'll take the latch too!

Edited by toffy

That was $150.00 to a depot in Launceston.

If you organise the freight through e-go and pay for it. I will stick the cartnote on the bonnet.

$320.00 for the bonnet and latch.

If your still keen PM me and I will give you my bank details

  • 1 month later...

If this hasn't sold in a couple of weeks I will grab it. Trying using smartsend.com.au instead of e-go. I have found smartsend to be better then e-go. I just wish my F.G bonnet would sell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...