Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hay guys,

need some direction with tracking down where this static noise is coming from.

i just have the basic mp3/cd head unit with std front speakers, spilts in rear doors and sub + amp in boot.

. now the issue is with the RADIO only, CD's and aux input are fine. i had the original antenna connected which was terrible, then i tried a plugin non powered option.. again terrible. then i purchased one that connects to dimester circuit and 12v.

when the car is on accessories power the radio seems fine and very clear. as soon as the igition is turned on the static starts and reception is poo again. there is no engine/wine noise just static like you have really bad reception.

what should i be doing to fix. different ground for head unit? check 12v line ( for what i dont know )?

driving me insane!! :domokun:

:thanks:

Spark plugs.

Its old school I know, but was the first thing that came into my head. Can't remember which way around- need some of the old timers to tell us- but Plugs either with/without resistors create bad effects on radio signals.

I believe its the "R" in the plugs name that designates it as a resistor plug.

shoot me down if I'm wrong.

Ignition or acc?? depends where your ignition is coming from, may have found an ignitiion wire with something active ie fuel pump, try using your power supply from an acc/ ign supply rather than an ign only wire.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok radio fixed...

the plug that connects into the ariel wiring must be connected to 12v. i think its yellow with a black stripe. connects about 3 inchs back from the 2 prong plug and comes out with all the standard radio wiring. once i connected it to the accessories 12v every station was perfect :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
×
×
  • Create New...