Jump to content
SAU Community

C34 Radio Static When Iginition Is On

Mr GTS4

By Mr GTS4,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
Posted

Hay guys,

need some direction with tracking down where this static noise is coming from.

i just have the basic mp3/cd head unit with std front speakers, spilts in rear doors and sub + amp in boot.

. now the issue is with the RADIO only, CD's and aux input are fine. i had the original antenna connected which was terrible, then i tried a plugin non powered option.. again terrible. then i purchased one that connects to dimester circuit and 12v.

when the car is on accessories power the radio seems fine and very clear. as soon as the igition is turned on the static starts and reception is poo again. there is no engine/wine noise just static like you have really bad reception.

what should i be doing to fix. different ground for head unit? check 12v line ( for what i dont know )?

driving me insane!! :domokun:

:thanks:

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Spark plugs.

Its old school I know, but was the first thing that came into my head. Can't remember which way around- need some of the old timers to tell us- but Plugs either with/without resistors create bad effects on radio signals.

I believe its the "R" in the plugs name that designates it as a resistor plug.

shoot me down if I'm wrong.

Springsteen Contributor

Springsteen

Posted
Posted

Ignition or acc?? depends where your ignition is coming from, may have found an ignitiion wire with something active ie fuel pump, try using your power supply from an acc/ ign supply rather than an ign only wire.

  • 2 weeks later...
Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok radio fixed...

the plug that connects into the ariel wiring must be connected to 12v. i think its yellow with a black stripe. connects about 3 inchs back from the 2 prong plug and comes out with all the standard radio wiring. once i connected it to the accessories 12v every station was perfect :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...