Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can vouch for the Greddy. On my previous setup I had one holding boost dead-straight for my HKS GTRS @ 20 psi. Can't remember when full boost was achieved, but it was scary responsive.. Boost would fluctuate between 19.8 - 20.7 psi when on full song. (According to boost gauge)

I can vouch for the Greddy. On my previous setup I had one holding boost dead-straight for my HKS GTRS @ 20 psi. Can't remember when full boost was achieved, but it was scary responsive.. Boost would fluctuate between 19.8 - 20.7 psi when on full song. (According to boost gauge)

is 6k rpm scary responsive?

Don't rule out timing, the front of the exhaust cam can get chewed out and timing will move 10-15 degrees.. Tends to be less consistent though, will go like a shot one day and a bucket of crap the next.

Don, I think I have about 10mm now...the outer end of the actuator just touched the boss that the flapper shaft/spindle passes thru. You'll see what I mean when you check yours ;)

Checked mine and the outer end of the act sits just before the middle of the pin giving a measurement of hole center on the act to center of the pin about 7mm.

So basically with 9psi acts with less preload, we have about the same response......EBC time!!

And these turbos were proven time and time again, and as a matter of fact seen some really shitty response times for -7s as well on paper too, so its just a matter to tweaking to get them up to scratch so dont worry

There appears to be different understandings of response here....

1. The initial time it takes the turbos to spool up from idle speed during take off, and,

2. The time / delay for max boost to be achieved when you're in the turbo's working rpm band, above say 4000 etc. Eg, when you're on the track, holding 4500 around a corner and then power back up for the exit.....example 2.....you're at 4.5k, you put flat down, how long does it take to make full boost = level of responsiveness.

What we "should" be talking about in this thread is No.1....how long it takes for the turbo to get everything going hard from idle rpm. I guess it shouldn't reeeeealy be called "response" just by itself...maybe initial spool up time would be a better way of putting it :P :P

And yes, big singles can be very "responsive" up top when there're plenty of fumes going round....but I don't think you can beat the responsiveness of small twins or the stockers. When you're up it they on max in a split second - awesome on the windy roads ;)

Checked mine and the outer end of the act sits just before the middle of the pin giving a measurement of hole center on the act to center of the pin about 7mm.

So basically with 9psi acts with less preload, we have about the same response......EBC time!!

And these turbos were proven time and time again, and as a matter of fact seen some really shitty response times for -7s as well on paper too, so its just a matter to tweaking to get them up to scratch so dont worry

Haha I see...yes, I think we're going to go down that path ;) I'm not gonna wind on any more pre-load for now....I need to see where this thing boosts to now without bleeding anything off (bleed valve is closed, may as well take it out). I reckon the 10mm on mine will make it boost to exactly 18 pounds or so - if it goes over, I'll have to wind some preload off :no: ....ultimately I'll have to maybe wind some off again anyway so EBC can do some controlling up there as per XKLABA's recommendations.

My 9's love the twisties. When are you getting the final tune and stuff?

ASAP mate. Right now I've been ganny-ing around with front prop shaft removed because tuning mob killed the front diff (somehow). Hope to have it in soon and then it's off for a tune once more

...also, there's the EBC....wondering if I should just putter around some more and get that as well before tuning

Yes, I would think its a good idea to let the tunner play around with it and get it all set up.

Haha I reckon anything would look good on the graph right now....they tried to tune it with the wastegates flapping in the wind - dumbasses! I mean hell, what tuner does that? "Hmmm....turbos are laggy....lets not check for mechanical issues and crank up the boost instead" GRRRRRRRR!!!! :domokun:

Right now they'd have a graph that would similar to a GT30 except a bit fatter down low...just need to have the whole show shifted forwards by another 500rpm and then I'll be a happy chappy!

So what are your plans Don? Do you have any graphs? Mine was so pathetic that I didn't take a copy....it's flat and gay and would just remind me of when I spent all that money for nothing :P

Am quite motivated now...just came back from a drive that had a highway stretch in it where I loaded them up a bit in 3rd up a hill.....expected just the normal low boost but they instead ramped up to what would have been (I backed off) around 16psi at 4000 ;) Can't wait to get it tuned so that she'll ramp up like that in the lower gears too!

tommis85: with your foot pump hooked up what pressure did the wastegate start to crack open? how much preload have u dialed in (1 full turn is equivalent to 0.8 mm) and as a result what is your peak boost.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...