Jump to content
SAU Community

Thinking Of Buying An R35...key Differences Between My09, 10, 11 & 12?


Recommended Posts

Wardski sounds like your R35 is a garage queen, let me know you're ready to offload it. :P

Indeed it is. I only do 4,000kms a year, nothing but the best treatment for my baby :) Unfortunately I plan to keep this one for at least 5 years :D

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is it possible to crack 400awkw's with the DBA's on 98/100PULP - didn't get get slightly bigger turbos then CBA's?

No mechanical differences other than slightly larger turbo inlet pipes. Only the spec v had different turbos

The oem power gain has been in the tuning, so you'll get less of a power increase aftermarket tuning a DBA vs CBA and end up at the same place

Aftermarket turbo inlet pipes are larger than oem

Like I said earlier, a number on a dyno is somewhat arbitrary. Tweak the dyno and you can get it to read whatever you want

Edited by domino_z

i personally dislike the 35,

while it did impress me at first, then i found out how the entire car is a "throw away item"

(my personal experience working on these)

09, 10 have a shim over bucket cam follwer, 11 & 12 have a solid 1 piece bucket with a stem on the inside

the 09/10 cylinder heads IMO are better as you can get shims made up and generally you order them thicker for the intention to grind them to suit the clearance you want

the 11 & 12 you will need to have nissan make up the solid buckets to suit the valve protrusion, if you get the measurement 100% perfect and matches their measuring tools

the bores are plasma coated, cannot be rebored or even honed as the coating is only 2 thou thick, darton will be releasing a sleeve kit quite soon

cranks cant be ground either due to their coating, spin a bearing, buy a new crank

Is it true the bores have to be inspected at 100,000klm's?

if its not broke dont fix it, but by time anyone get to 100,000kms im sure darton would have the sleeve kits available so these engines have more then one life

i personally dislike the 35,

while it did impress me at first, then i found out how the entire car is a "throw away item"

(my personal experience working on these)

09, 10 have a shim over bucket cam follwer, 11 & 12 have a solid 1 piece bucket with a stem on the inside

the 09/10 cylinder heads IMO are better as you can get shims made up and generally you order them thicker for the intention to grind them to suit the clearance you want

the 11 & 12 you will need to have nissan make up the solid buckets to suit the valve protrusion, if you get the measurement 100% perfect and matches their measuring tools

the bores are plasma coated, cannot be rebored or even honed as the coating is only 2 thou thick, darton will be releasing a sleeve kit quite soon

cranks cant be ground either due to their coating, spin a bearing, buy a new crank

Sheesh...the R35 is such a shitbox..Im gunna sell mine and buy an 80s skyline

i personally dislike the 35,

while it did impress me at first, then i found out how the entire car is a "throw away item"

(my personal experience working on these)

09, 10 have a shim over bucket cam follwer, 11 & 12 have a solid 1 piece bucket with a stem on the inside

the 09/10 cylinder heads IMO are better as you can get shims made up and generally you order them thicker for the intention to grind them to suit the clearance you want

the 11 & 12 you will need to have nissan make up the solid buckets to suit the valve protrusion, if you get the measurement 100% perfect and matches their measuring tools

the bores are plasma coated, cannot be rebored or even honed as the coating is only 2 thou thick, darton will be releasing a sleeve kit quite soon

cranks cant be ground either due to their coating, spin a bearing, buy a new crank

at the same token, this is very good feedback as I have broken my fair share of engines in the past

such an intelligent response, "speedah"

to correct and educate you; (this requires reading the entire post)

never did i say the r35 was a shit box, i was quite impressed with them at first and the "porche killer" nickname and the nurburgring lap time, aka far from a shit box

My workshop has had quite a few come in, and from there i noticed they are the perfect symbol for todays throw away lifestyle. The customer spending a large amount of money to buy the car initially, then something goes wrong or sometime in the future the motor could do with a rebore cause its a tired motor, but there is barely anything that can be repaired, just replaced, so more money goes to purchase of new parts or motors and the rest ends up in land fill,

in short IMO great for nissans profits, bad for consumers wallets

to add in my earlier post not once did i suggest, encourage or talk up "an 80s skyline" or any other type of vehicle, this post was and still will be in reference to the r35 and i was just stating my personal experience with these motors to help Marko R1 make his decision which im assuming this thread was started to list the pros and cons of each of the series

(similar idea when purchasing my r31, i got all the pros and cons, with the knowledge i found i bought a 31 knowing that the cylinder heads crack, leaking power steering racks being a factory option, whinning diffs etc but i still bought it cause "i heart box")

Lol yea 35's are ghey long live the r31

And now the trolls come waltzing in..

Long live the R31 - in a museum.. LOL.. Hmmm, the R31 interior is no better than a same year Mazda 323 as well as being more a dinosaur than Godzilla.

Pity this thread has gone way off topic.... My 2cents - every car has issues, but I wouldn't trade my 2010 GT-R for anything on this planet, especially any of those overpriced euros....

Edited by Wardski

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...