Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

not that i know off??

I have bought a set of rims and they arent sitting the same as the exact same items on my old 33 GTR. I cant understand why... just need some comparisons.

And if anyone is running 18x10 +18 id love to come over and just see how they sit

Its going into a suspension place today to check it out for me, camber etc. But to the naked eye it doesnt seem to bad... i mean on my last GTR the rims sat around 3mm inside the gaurds. these sit a solid inch!

I may have found the problem. Has anyone ever heard of this. The place measured the offset and said it's around + mid to late 30s and not +18, even tho they are clearly marked +18?? This would explain a lot but I've never heard of this happening before? ? ?

Does anyone else have XD9s in this size?

I may have found the problem. Has anyone ever heard of this. The place measured the offset and said it's around + mid to late 30s and not +18, even tho they are clearly marked +18?? This would explain a lot but I've never heard of this happening before? ? ?

Does anyone else have XD9s in this size?

Maybe they have had the mounting face machined down at some stage.

Make sure that they measured them to the tyre bead not the edge of the rim, 12 mm isn't much difference.

Yer I just got home and measured it myself. The rims right, they were wrong.

Back to square one....

Does anyone in Adelaide have a stock 33 Gtr that would allow me to test these rims front and back on?

Or better yet have a set of 18x10 + 18s on a 33 Gtr?

Really need help guys...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...