Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all hope use could help me with a few questions I have a 33 v spec I just took the motor out as doing some work and new shell ect, any way I was thinking of going single turbo just wondering what ya thoughts where? Is it worth it

But I main question is what sort of things do I have to change to go single? And what turbo do youse recommend my current mods are engine:

* low km reconditioned head

* HKS 272 cams

*CP forged pistons

* argo conrods

* balanced crank

* ACL race bearings

*Nitto oil pump

*new water pump

* sump baffle

* splitfire coils

* R34 N1 turbos

* stainless dumps

* 3"exhaust with HKS muffler

* metalcat

* walbro 500hp fuel pump

*700cc denso injectors

*adjustable fuel reg

*Z32 a/f meters

*apexi pods

*alloy radiator

*power fc

*greddy profec b ebc

*oil catch can

Drivetrain:

* Jim Berry carbonic race clutch

* nismo flywheel

*nismo slave cylinder

*cusco front diff

Let me know what you guys think:)

Depends what power you want really, I've had two RB26 set ups essentially and the one I have in my GTR now is the best I've had (the stock unopened motor is holding it back alot however) I have had 3 single turbo set ups on my GTR to date.

I'm currently running a Precision Billet series PT6262 turbo charger, un real response full 1.6 bar by 4200rpm on 98RON however with a built motor my peak power would be a lot better. Previous set ups have included a Garrett GT3582R and a Turbonetics T66 (plain bearing 0.90 roughly housing) I've never liked the poswer delivery of twins however they may have their advantages in the 3-360kw range. However I have no complaints since changing to a single high mount plus the maintenance is a hell of a lot easier :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Awesome thanks mate :) is it a lot of stuffing around to go to single? Sounds like you have some awesome setups!!

What do you have to change to go single? Do you still get aircon ect. I was reading that some people change a heap of stuff I'm not gonna go to big just something that looks nice and is resposive

if your arfter a bit more kick, why not just get some -5's? you have good supporting modes in place and they will just bolt up to your current setup. would be a cheaper option then going single.

single would require new intake piping, exhaust manifold, dumps and front pipe etc.

If your keen on the single route, i see alot of people getting good results with a t04z

Depends what power you want really, I've had two RB26 set ups essentially and the one I have in my GTR now is the best I've had (the stock unopened motor is holding it back alot however) I have had 3 single turbo set ups on my GTR to date.

I'm currently running a Precision Billet series PT6262 turbo charger, un real response full 1.6 bar by 4200rpm on 98RON however with a built motor my peak power would be a lot better. Previous set ups have included a Garrett GT3582R and a Turbonetics T66 (plain bearing 0.90 roughly housing) I've never liked the poswer delivery of twins however they may have their advantages in the 3-360kw range. However I have no complaints since changing to a single high mount plus the maintenance is a hell of a lot easier :)

What power are u making with 6262? What boost

Well it made 320kw on around 20psi which I'm

Not happy with however it may have something to do with the only mildly decent tuner up this way tuned it to around 10.8:1 afr's lol so it would make 350 or so leaned up a bit... However I was also after a bit of life from the stock motor to so I'm not complaining.

Going to a single was the best thing I ever did for my GTR, in terms of changing things that's par for te course however it's definitely worth it.

My GTR is currently getting parted out.... So my turbo set up is for sale complete with hot side piping, dump and front pipe to suit 32/33 GTR and intake pipe lol

Sedat i have been very impressed with precision turbo's. I hve just finished a r34 neo with 5558(precision) it made 367kw on 22psi ethanol and full boost at 3900,

I have just fitted a 6262 twin scroll onto my personal GTR which i was planning to tune this week but found a water leak under the plenum so i pulled that iff tonight.

My aim is 400kw with full boost at 4200.

U should go a 65 series or so for 450+kw

was this neo built or stock?

Sedat i have been very impressed with precision turbo's. I hve just finished a r34 neo with 5558(precision) it made 367kw on 22psi ethanol and full boost at 3900,

I have just fitted a 6262 twin scroll onto my personal GTR which i was planning to tune this week but found a water leak under the plenum so i pulled that iff tonight.

My aim is 400kw with full boost at 4200.

U should go a 65 series or so for 450+kw

Sedat i have been very impressed with precision turbo's. I hve just finished a r34 neo with 5558(precision) it made 367kw on 22psi ethanol and full boost at 3900,

I have just fitted a 6262 twin scroll onto my personal GTR which i was planning to tune this week but found a water leak under the plenum so i pulled that iff tonight.

My aim is 400kw with full boost at 4200.

U should go a 65 series or so for 450+kw

Jez

Wait....I'll send you a pm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...