Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I was wondering if it was possible (legal) to import a 2011 Nissan GTR R35 from japan, i read somewhere that the car has to be at least 15 years old or something? Can someone give me any kind of information/prices included ??

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan%20car/nissan/skyline+gt-r/9998727/

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404127-importing-an-r35/
Share on other sites

  On 06/07/2012 at 10:29 AM, lidz said:

Only ways are personal import or race import, one you can't drive on the street ever & the other you have to move to Japan for 12 months. Basically if it's sold locally & newer than '88 your outta luck.

According to DOTARS, Nissan GT-R's with build dates up to Dec 2008 can be imported for street use.

  On 06/07/2012 at 10:31 AM, Wardski said:

According to DOTARS, Nissan GT-R's with build dates up to Dec 2008 can be imported for street use.

True they can as gtr wasn't sold locally then, however they need to be essentially new with delivery km's. Best of luck finding one.

  • 4 months later...

Soo..... What If my wife is wife is japanese and has a Permanat Residancy Visa. Can she buy the car over there, hold on to it for a year, use if the few times that she goes over, then import under the personal import ruling?

Does this mean that she could import any year with any KM GTR - R35?

There's more than 15 on carsales atm

Why would you bother importing a jap spec with all buttons, gauges and displays in Japanese, nav and radio not working, spending the additional cost complying with ADR's, gst and stamp duty on delivery, then taking a huge hit when it comes time to selling because no one will buy an import over an ADM

Despite the appealing in japan only auction price, at the end of the day, the figures just don't add up

Edited by domino_z

Guages and buttons in Japanese its not really an issue, I can read a fair bit of japanese.. well, I could get by but anyway you make all very vaiid points, by the time it was was on road here it would also be the same cost, and with a massive headach..

Maybe I can get an R33/R34 import and have some money left to play with mods, have a bit of fun, learn and not freak out about getting a bit of dirt on my nice R35.. which I would be pariod as to park anywhere in vic because no one here cares about dooring other peoples cars... :(

Edited by vt_sleeper

When I lived in Melb back in 2001, and had my very first Subaru WRX STi, I got doored and/or keyed at least once a month. Not because I couldnt park it properly, not because it was a habbibi bling bling lowered fully sik doof doof machine, but just because people didn't give a 5hit, or were jealous.

People in Brisbane seem to look on in awe at my GTR. Never had an issue here, even when parked in the most bogan of shopping centre car parks.

unfortunately you had that sti right around the time they were targets by the ford/holden mob and stood out like dogs balls with big wings and gold wheels

they seem to be alot more accepted now plus alot of cars these days have wings and coloured wheels

when i was daily driving my m3 convert a 4-5 years ago, and even the c63, people wouldn't let me merge/change lanes, would take their time on purpose at fuel stations, cut me off, was a real eye opener......would be even worse today id imagine with economic crisis and looming 2014 recession

Edited by domino_z
  On 04/12/2012 at 1:33 AM, domino_z said:

unfortunately you had that sti right around the time they were targets by the ford/holden mob and stood out like dogs balls with big wings and gold wheels

Haha, yeah had the big wing, but didnt go for the gold wheel option :P When I moved back to Brisbane, I ended up having it corrected & resprayed. Still miss the ole bug-eye. Went to a good home though.

  On 03/12/2012 at 8:23 AM, vt_sleeper said:

Soo..... What If my wife is wife is japanese and has a Permanat Residancy Visa. Can she buy the car over there, hold on to it for a year, use if the few times that she goes over, then import under the personal import ruling?

Does this mean that she could import any year with any KM GTR - R35?

Doesn't work like that for personal imports. As per the legislation you need to have owned the car and had access to it for at least one year before you import it here. You will have to provide a copy of every page of your passport to prove you were in the country for the majority of the time in that year. In addition you will be asked to provide other legal documents etc to prove you are leaving the country for good.

  • 1 month later...

^ If his wife does live there and uses the car though she could import it in her name.

Just be aware that the Australian government enjoy nothing more than taxing people as much as possible and will make sure they get lots of money out of her when the car lands. My favourite is that they ignore what you paid for the car and instead require you to get the car valued to determine what the car is worth in Aus which is most likely more than what you would pay in Japan... They then take that value as the basis to apply lots and lots of tax; GST, Duty, Luxury car tax... So quite quickly what could ahve worked out saving you money may end up being no cheaper.

I saw an article a while ago that showed the price of an SLS AMG in Australia.... Almost $123k of the $497k you pay goes to the government rather than Mercedes!

http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/motors/luxury-cars-why-do-we-pay-more-20110419-1dml9.html

  • 5 months later...
  On 04/12/2012 at 12:39 AM, Wardski said:

When I lived in Melb back in 2001, and had my very first Subaru WRX STi, I got doored and/or keyed at least once a month. Not because I couldnt park it properly, not because it was a habbibi bling bling lowered fully sik doof doof machine, but just because people didn't give a 5hit, or were jealous.

People in Brisbane seem to look on in awe at my GTR. Never had an issue here, even when parked in the most bogan of shopping centre car parks.

What suburb were you in?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...