Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As some of you may know I've been having lots of fun with my car lately

To get my car back on the road I need a replacement stub axle, to be precise I need the shorter of the 2 stub axles, anyone got one I could buy or know where I could get one as I'm not having any luck with the wreckers that I have called so far

I'm sightly baffled as to how I have ended up in this situation to begin with

Now to recap why I am baffled

My cars an auto V35 which "should" have been running an open diff just like every other V35 auto out there. Im pretty sure that my old diff was an open one because of the way it behaved around corners and how it seemed to light up one of my rear tyres when I took off quickly from a standstill

With that in mind I ordered a Quaife diff that was suited to the US base spec 350z which runs an open diff just like my car or so I thought

When the diff arrived and the install went ahead I ran into a problem where the longer stub axle was too long to fit into the new Quaife center and after searching the net came across Quaifs own solution of chopping off part of the longer axle to make it fit. Which up until now has worked fine

With more research it seems that the US base spec 350z which runs an open diff uses 2 equal length stub axles that fit perfectly into the quaife diff that I ordered to be a drop in replacement

The VLSD models run 2 different length stub axles in which case you order the diff for the VLSD equipped car and it bolts right up with the different length axles or you get the diff for the open diff 350z and do the chop on the longer stub axle like I ended up doing or you buy a shorter stub axle from a open diff 350z and replace the longer stub axle with the shorter one

Whats got me scratching my head is why has my auto V35 got the same stub axles as a VLSD equipped car ?

Anyone else got an auto V35 and pulled out the diff and noticed what the stub axle situation is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404363-v35-diff-weirdness-need-stub-axle/
Share on other sites

there is a place here in Melbourne where they have 3 V35s. You might wanna give them a call and see what is available.

Let me find the website.......there it is

they have V35 have a look at the website http://www.niss4x4.com.au/

Also try this one which is in Sydney, they sell new parts http://justjap.com/store/home.php

I hope it helps mate.

Thanks for the post Nismo

I found niss4x4 last night didn't know they had V35's until I had a look just then. I paid for and asked them to send me the short stub axle out of one of the 350zs at about 4pm today. Hopefully they haven't pulled it out of the 350 as I'm still not 100% sure if its even the part that I need

Have quickly shot them an e-mail and asked them to pull out the shorter stub axle from one of the VQ35 powered V35s instead. Will give them a call in the morning to follow up the e-mail I sent

In other news I got a call today from my mother telling me that the auto box in her S13 had gone BOOM! whilst driving 500m away from her house. The workshop she went to wanted $1500 to replace it what a joke! 2nd hand auto SR boxes go for free to $500

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...