Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hey hey

Ive always wanted to try the Subaru upper engine cleaner. Heard of them being used on subies, evo's, vw's. So why not get rid of some carbon build up in the gtr?!

Bad idea? Please tell me why?

Yes I have searched, yes they are all in 2006 and one I found was in 2003 lol.

Question time. Where do I spray it? Do I take my intercooler pipe off the plenum and spray the first 1/2 of the can in there? Then after that where do I spray while its running?

Thanking you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404398-lets-talk-upper-engine-cleaner/
Share on other sites

So far,

  • Do it before a oil change
  • Spray 1/2 the can in each individual cylinder (thanks silvia guys)
  • Do the other half while the engine is running through a vac line
  • Make sure it is well ventilated (some videos are crazy haha)
  • Get it from Subaru dealer
  • The more smoke the dirtier your engine was
  • Its the ducks nuts

id be interested to know if anybody has had any bad experiences with it...

anybody?

i used a can on my old sonata and it seemed to make it smoke even more and use more oil.... (tho its got over 250k kms on it n they are shit engine...)

Still got a can sitting in there so wondering if i should run it thru the RB25...

turbo seals? O2 sensors? high flow cat?

Nulon upper engine cleaner is cheaper.

Warm up the engine first. Turn it off and spray it in all hoses leading to the manifold and AAC. Let it sit. Crank engine and it will start in 5 seconds or so. Repeat.

You'll probably need to reset your idle. I even had to change my cold start values.

Nulon upper engine cleaner is cheaper.

Warm up the engine first. Turn it off and spray it in all hoses leading to the manifold and AAC. Let it sit. Crank engine and it will start in 5 seconds or so. Repeat.

You'll probably need to reset your idle. I even had to change my cold start values.

The subie stuff is only $18 per can. Did it f**k your cold start valve? havent heard of the subie stuff needing to reset idle nor taking out the cold start valve. Maybe this is a skyline thing

been thinking about this stuff as well, think I'll see what my mechanic thinks next time I'm in there.

Some Mainlube engine flush probably wouldn't go astray either for the oil system!

I like your thinking. Let us know what your mechanic says

i used some in my vt commodore (had about 210,000kms on the clock at the time, and has nearly 245k on it now). other than making it smoke like a sumbitch when i started the car again (until it burnt it all away), it didn't actually do much. i pulled the intake plenum off afterwards and it was still sort of caked on so i scrubbed it clean with some carby cleaner and degreaser. didn't make any difference to how the car drove though.

I've used this sort of thing many times in a few different forms (ie nulon, wurth, AC delco etc.) and so far have found the subaru one to be the most effective. The main thing to BE AWARE of is that i believe the fumes are carcinogenic, so ALWAYS be in a well ventilated (preferably outdoors) area, and use caution while spraying. Aside from that, follow directions on the Subaru can, and have an explanation ready for when the CFA arrive :).

  • 1 month later...

Nulon upper engine cleaner is cheaper.

Warm up the engine first. Turn it off and spray it in all hoses leading to the manifold and AAC. Let it sit. Crank engine and it will start in 5 seconds or so. Repeat.

You'll probably need to reset your idle. I even had to change my cold start values.

its also rubbish compared to the subaru stuff, i use the subaru stuff in everything

i used some in my vt commodore (had about 210,000kms on the clock at the time, and has nearly 245k on it now). other than making it smoke like a sumbitch when i started the car again (until it burnt it all away), it didn't actually do much. i pulled the intake plenum off afterwards and it was still sort of caked on so i scrubbed it clean with some carby cleaner and degreaser. didn't make any difference to how the car drove though.

yeah iv never noticed a difference after using it.

Only difference i ever noticed was a bad one. Used it on a 2.0 4cyl Sonata with 250k on it. It blew a tiny bit of smoke beforehand and used a bit of oil. After some upper engine cleaner it blows smoke like a mother f**ker, especially from the valve seals (i pity the people that are behind me at the lights after sitting for a while) n it uses bulk oil now.

Never again.

The only time i can think it would be a useful product is as a repetitive preventative product in motors that are prone to build up. Otherwise its probably not going to move anything substantial (like injector treatment) and if it does itl probably create a problem in a car that is otherwise running ok...

Edited by jjman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...