Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im thinking of putting a new OEM 5th in mine as I would have to re-open the box again...Have you ever heard of a OEM 5th gear snapping in a 700hp car cause this is my goal HP Or even snapping at all. I dont understand why hey made it shorter if it doesnt affect the 1/4 time and slows the top speed. What is the point of it being shorter

is it possible to change something else in the car to get it up in the top speed ? diff ? I have a 320 speedo and Im the type that actually wants it to do that if there was enough road, Even if I wouldnt do it It would stay on my mind like a lie staring at me LOOL. ANd no I dont want to change the speedo i like it :P

You could put a ~3.7 Silvia CW&P in there. That will give you ~11% back on your top end. But it will also lengthen every other gear, which might gay it up a little.

But really, now you are just playing with yourself. There's no real chance of you ever exploring the top end speed difference between the two 5ths, at least not safely. If you tried to do it on Conrod straight you'd almost certainly kill yourself at the chase, and if you tried to do it on a public road, you're insane.

I dont understand why hey made it shorter if it doesnt affect the 1/4 time and slows the top speed. What is the point of it being shorter

The box is 'close ratio' box. That's why first is taller. You don't drop as many rpm between changes.

There's not many places where you would full noise in 5th gear. Eastern Creek main straight maybe and Phillip Island straight. Put at stock 5th gear in, it will be fine. Also, buy the OS Giken centre plate.

yeah just put the standard 5th gear on it, I have done the same and with 600+rwhp had no issues with 5th, makes for a better cruising rev. I certainly wouldn't change the diff, 1st gear is tall enough ! plus you'd have to do the front too !

if you are chasing decent power the centre plate could be good insurance, if I have anymore problems with front to back movement of the main shaft I'll be forced to get one.

I know 2 people that have busted a stock 5th @ Philip Island...

Leave the OS one.

Buggar.

Lucky I kept the OS one. Although I only touch 5th briefly down the back straight at barbagallo...

For the sake of argument wouldn't you just need rev 5th out to, say 8200 to see 300 ?

@R31Nismoid you know the people that broke 5th did they have a center plate in there? I am just wondering if that would of stopped it from braking

Buggar.

Lucky I kept the OS one. Although I only touch 5th briefly down the back straight at barbagallo...

For the sake of argument wouldn't you just need rev 5th out to, say 8200 to see 300 ?

It's more reaching the top end of 4th... Put into 5th, get back on the power - and POP goes the weasel. They are not really designed to be having max load put on them being an overdrive gear which would be more of a problem than the actual RPM.

Thanks......WHere can I get pricing on a Os Giken Centre plate ? Expensive?

Greenline.

I received mine 5 days after payment.

They're roughly $1,000.

Ryan1200 is selling one in the classifieds section for $650 used...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...