Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends which gears i guess.

The old holden v8 diffs must have big gears and room to do it, cos it worked well for ages,

its not suprising cos they are simple and big.

I know squat about LSDs, and he didnt tell me jack yet so.... monday, Dan i guess ill find out what he can do.

What are you talking about GTSBoy, shimming the gears or the clutches?

I like to know which ideas are crap so i dont get burned.

Anyway its definately rooted, sounds worse after an oil change.

I was specifically talking about "shimming" the viscous coupling in the standard VLSD. There are no clutches in a standard VLSD. There is only the viscous coupling. When people talk about "shimming" a VLSD, they are talking about putting in one or more extra of the spacer shims that are just put in there normally to adjust the slop out of the assembly. By jamming another in there they take out all the slop and load the outside of the viscous coupling against the inside of the centre, which has the effect of making it seem like they have tightened up the LSD part of the diff (which they have) but in a totally bodgy way that leads directly to wear and f**kedness.

You can of course (and indeed must) correctly set up the pinion to crownwheel by using the correct thickness crush spacer (or a carefully machined to correct thickness solid replacement for a crush spacer) when you set a diff up from scratch. This would normally be expected to take out all the slop and backlash in the CW&P....that's what it is intended to do. However........I had a good diff guy build my current diff from a number of bits. My original R32 housing, an S15 helical centre and the 4.11CW&P from an R34 VLSD. He set the CW&P spacer up beautifully. Nice solid machined spacer. Mesh is perfect. My diff/driveline makes the same sort of clunking noises you are all complaining about above. My tailshaft doesn't have a lot of slop, and my driveshafts do not have a lot of slop either. I can only assume that the helical centre I have has a lot of loose slop in the mess of gears in the middle, and that is where my noise hides. If I hadn't spent so much money putting what I have together (including swapping to 3x2 bolt driveshafts to match the S15 stub axles), I'd go out and get another one. So, I just live with it. I don't care. I just drive with it in mind and make my shifts and clutch actions appropriately if I don't want to hear it.

Edited by GTSBoy

Hey guys,

Shimming tightens the LSD up and is nothing to do with the backlash, the diffs would need to be adjusted to take up the slack, if you dont know what you are doing just take the centre to a diff guru :)

If i was in Canberra i would help but 4hrs is a bit far for a quick look!

He is referring to a mechanical diff centre i would say, a lot of fun but they do clunk and carry on in carparks as they are basically locked anyway....

You should be able to check the diff bushes, subframe, tailshaft, gearbox and engine mounts etc man...... Its hard to picture what is happening from your description though......

this, the shim will only tighten the lsd action in the cheapest way, apart from welding it haha, the metallic ting sort of noise when put in reverse will be backlash which is just from wear, I'd prob just put up with it until diff upgrade time

Edited by WMDC35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...