Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends which gears i guess.

The old holden v8 diffs must have big gears and room to do it, cos it worked well for ages,

its not suprising cos they are simple and big.

I know squat about LSDs, and he didnt tell me jack yet so.... monday, Dan i guess ill find out what he can do.

What are you talking about GTSBoy, shimming the gears or the clutches?

I like to know which ideas are crap so i dont get burned.

Anyway its definately rooted, sounds worse after an oil change.

I was specifically talking about "shimming" the viscous coupling in the standard VLSD. There are no clutches in a standard VLSD. There is only the viscous coupling. When people talk about "shimming" a VLSD, they are talking about putting in one or more extra of the spacer shims that are just put in there normally to adjust the slop out of the assembly. By jamming another in there they take out all the slop and load the outside of the viscous coupling against the inside of the centre, which has the effect of making it seem like they have tightened up the LSD part of the diff (which they have) but in a totally bodgy way that leads directly to wear and f**kedness.

You can of course (and indeed must) correctly set up the pinion to crownwheel by using the correct thickness crush spacer (or a carefully machined to correct thickness solid replacement for a crush spacer) when you set a diff up from scratch. This would normally be expected to take out all the slop and backlash in the CW&P....that's what it is intended to do. However........I had a good diff guy build my current diff from a number of bits. My original R32 housing, an S15 helical centre and the 4.11CW&P from an R34 VLSD. He set the CW&P spacer up beautifully. Nice solid machined spacer. Mesh is perfect. My diff/driveline makes the same sort of clunking noises you are all complaining about above. My tailshaft doesn't have a lot of slop, and my driveshafts do not have a lot of slop either. I can only assume that the helical centre I have has a lot of loose slop in the mess of gears in the middle, and that is where my noise hides. If I hadn't spent so much money putting what I have together (including swapping to 3x2 bolt driveshafts to match the S15 stub axles), I'd go out and get another one. So, I just live with it. I don't care. I just drive with it in mind and make my shifts and clutch actions appropriately if I don't want to hear it.

Edited by GTSBoy

Hey guys,

Shimming tightens the LSD up and is nothing to do with the backlash, the diffs would need to be adjusted to take up the slack, if you dont know what you are doing just take the centre to a diff guru :)

If i was in Canberra i would help but 4hrs is a bit far for a quick look!

He is referring to a mechanical diff centre i would say, a lot of fun but they do clunk and carry on in carparks as they are basically locked anyway....

You should be able to check the diff bushes, subframe, tailshaft, gearbox and engine mounts etc man...... Its hard to picture what is happening from your description though......

this, the shim will only tighten the lsd action in the cheapest way, apart from welding it haha, the metallic ting sort of noise when put in reverse will be backlash which is just from wear, I'd prob just put up with it until diff upgrade time

Edited by WMDC35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Found the answer: it wont fit without a bit of work- you'd have to change the guards as well
    • Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
  • Create New...