Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R34 fitted with the "gold" Brembo front calipers, slotted/drilled aftermarket (Japanese) front discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads.

My problem is chronic brake squeal when the pads/rotors are warm and at low speeds/pedal pressures - it sounds like a bus!! Other than the noise the brakes are awesome.

The car doesn't have any anti-squeal shims fitted to the front calipers/pads but I have tried some tar based adhesive tape on the backs of the pads and also anti-squeal paste with no change in the noise. I have also gone over the front discs with emery paper with no change.

After talking through my problem with Howard from Race Brakes his thoughts are that it is due to the performance nature of the caliper design and the pads.

Is this the case with anyone else with the R33 and R34 GTR's (they are the same pad and I assume similar callipers) fitted with Brembos and performance pads?

Would anyone have a spare set of anti-squeal shims for the front Brembo callipers I could aquire? Failing that a description of what they look like and picture would assist me in making some - they aren't available as a spare part from Nissan and I have no idea what they look like.

Any thoughts about the next step in fixing my problem? It's the only real downer in a great car. I didn't really want to replace the discs, particularly if it doesn't fix the problem.

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

regards

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40490-help-front-brake-squeal-problems/
Share on other sites

My R33 GTR does the same thing, its not THAT bad, since its only under light braking i can just leave my braking until a fraction later and just put the brakes on a bit harder = no squeel....

i have slotted front discs... and i think bendix ultimate pads... they brake really well but squeel sometimes...

I have an R34 fitted with the "gold" Brembo front calipers, slotted/drilled aftermarket (Japanese) front discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads.  

My problem is chronic brake squeal when the pads/rotors are warm and at low speeds/pedal pressures - it sounds like a bus!! Other than the noise the brakes are awesome.

The car doesn't have any anti-squeal shims fitted to the front calipers/pads but I have tried some tar based adhesive tape on the backs of the pads and also anti-squeal paste with no change in the noise. I have also gone over the front discs with emery paper with no change.

After talking through my problem with Howard from Race Brakes his thoughts are that it is due to the performance nature of the caliper design and the pads.

Is this the case with anyone else with the R33 and R34 GTR's (they are the same pad and I assume similar callipers) fitted with Brembos and performance pads?

Would anyone have a spare set of anti-squeal shims for the front Brembo callipers I could aquire? Failing that a description of what they look like and picture would assist me in making some - they aren't available as a spare part from Nissan and I have no idea what they look like.

Any thoughts about the next step in fixing my problem? It's the only real downer in a great car. I didn't really want to replace the discs, particularly if it doesn't fix the problem.

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

regards

Andrew

Andrew;

I have the same problem. Drives me nuts. Squeals long and hard like a girl I once knew. Maybe her cuffs were too tight.

Seriously, I have Brembos with DBA @2500s and they are really annoying when used in traffic. I don't believe rotor replacement is the answer as I installed skimmed DBA 5000s. Frankly I think it's ridiculous to sell these pads for a daily driver with no solution for the noise, as it is to try and justify it by saying 'it's the performance nature of the brake pads'. How many Ferraris, Porsches and Superbikes have you heard emit an ear piercing squeal when stopping at low speed?

And the option of reducing the stopping distance so you can stand on the brakes to stop the noise isn't one I'm happy with. I don't accept these pads as being suitable for street use until the supplier comes up with a solution. My advice is to not accept the current situation.

Having said that, my brake mech has suggested chamfering the leading and trailing edges of the pads. If that doesn't stop it they're going back to AP where they came from, with a request to please explain; I asked about squealing and they said 'a bit' not 'a lot'.

Regards,

Mark

I'm guessing you've got Racebrakes RB74 or Comp 9 compound brake pads from Race brakes.

If so this is just how they are. I've use both these compounds and while they offer excellent braking power, they are very dusty and noisy. It's a compromise situation.

Edit; Doh, I meant Ferodo pads

Andrew;

I have the same problem. Drives me nuts. Squeals long and hard like a girl I once knew. Maybe her cuffs were too tight.  

Seriously, I have Brembos with Ferodo 2500s and  they are really annoying when used in traffic. I don't believe rotor replacement is the answer as I installed skimmed DBA 5000s. Frankly I think it's ridiculous to sell these pads for a daily driver with no solution for the noise, as it is to try and justify it by saying 'it's the performance nature of the brake pads'. How many Ferraris, Porsches and Superbikes have you heard emit an ear piercing squeal when stopping at low speed?  

And the option of reducing the stopping distance so you can stand on the brakes to stop the noise isn't one I'm happy with.  I don't accept these pads as being suitable for street use until the supplier comes up with a solution. My advice is to not accept the current situation.  

Having said that, my brake mech has suggested chamfering the leading and trailing edges of the pads. If that doesn't stop it they're going back to AP where they came from, with a request to please explain; I asked about squealing and they said 'a bit' not 'a lot'.

Regards,

Mark

Hi, I have the same problem in a R33 Gtst, I think it is very common. I have Bendix Ultimate Brake Pads. when I've them installed brand new, they were so good with no sound at all!

Not to mention that the discs were also machined.

The mechanic told me the pads are some what metallic pads so they do squeel eventually! I have to take his words for it as it did after a month of city driving!

Also, the brakes are excellent! Stops me no problem.

I guess you just have to put up with the noise!

Andrew;

I have the same problem. Drives me nuts. Squeals long and hard like a girl I once knew. Maybe her cuffs were too tight.  

Seriously, I have Brembos with DBA @2500s and  they are really annoying when used in traffic. I don't believe rotor replacement is the answer as I installed skimmed DBA 5000s. Frankly I think it's ridiculous to sell these pads for a daily driver with no solution for the noise, as it is to try and justify it by saying 'it's the performance nature of the brake pads'. How many Ferraris, Porsches and Superbikes have you heard emit an ear piercing squeal when stopping at low speed?  

And the option of reducing the stopping distance so you can stand on the brakes to stop the noise isn't one I'm happy with.  I don't accept these pads as being suitable for street use until the supplier comes up with a solution. My advice is to not accept the current situation.  

Having said that, my brake mech has suggested chamfering the leading and trailing edges of the pads. If that doesn't stop it they're going back to AP where they came from, with a request to please explain; I asked about squealing and they said 'a bit' not 'a lot'.

Regards,

Mark

Thanks for your reply Mark,

Nice to know that I'm not alone with this problem. I keep an eye on the Subaru STI forums and the Ferodo DS2500 is the pad of choice for a lot of them it seems, but squeal problems like GTR's seeem to suffer from isn't common from what I can work out?? The GTR callipers are definitely different which must add to the problem.

regards

Andrew

I'm guessing you've got Racebrakes RB74 or Comp 9 compound brake pads from Race brakes.

If so this is just how they are. I've use both these compounds and while they offer excellent braking power, they are very dusty and noisy. It's a compromise situation.

Hello SA,

My pads are Ferodo DS2500's. I actually fitted them to try and solve some squeal issues with the pads that were fitted when I bought the car - they made it worse not better!

I've used the RB74's on my previous WRX and they were noisy when hot but more of a quiet grinding noise rather than an ear-piercing squeal - much easier to live with than the current situation.

regards

Andrew

  • 4 weeks later...
I have an R34 fitted with the "gold" Brembo front calipers, slotted/drilled aftermarket (Japanese) front discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads.  

My problem is chronic brake squeal when the pads/rotors are warm and at low speeds/pedal pressures - it sounds like a bus!! Other than the noise the brakes are awesome.

The car doesn't have any anti-squeal shims fitted to the front calipers/pads but I have tried some tar based adhesive tape on the backs of the pads and also anti-squeal paste with no change in the noise. I have also gone over the front discs with emery paper with no change.

After talking through my problem with Howard from Race Brakes his thoughts are that it is due to the performance nature of the caliper design and the pads.

Is this the case with anyone else with the R33 and R34 GTR's (they are the same pad and I assume similar callipers) fitted with Brembos and performance pads?

Would anyone have a spare set of anti-squeal shims for the front Brembo callipers I could aquire? Failing that a description of what they look like and picture would assist me in making some - they aren't available as a spare part from Nissan and I have no idea what they look like.

Any thoughts about the next step in fixing my problem? It's the only real downer in a great car. I didn't really want to replace the discs, particularly if it doesn't fix the problem.

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

regards

Andrew

Andrew;

Have you had any luck in sorting this?

Mark

I notice my EBC Red Stuff Ceramics have a ruberised shim molded to the pad... maybe the stuff they are using these days means you cant just throw your shims away.

The shims are just soft metal to dampen the high frequency vibration.

Slip the pads out, use as a template to cut a shim from a can that had your fav drop in. This will stop it if it can be stopped...

Also there should be an anti rattle clip on the back of the caliper.

Hope this helps

TT

Andrew;

Have you had any luck in sorting this?  

Mark

Hello Mark,

No real luck yet. I've posted this question on a couple of forums around the place and the conclusion I've come to is:

- The Ferodo DS2500 is a noisy pad due the performance nature of it. I've tried making my own shims, stick on shims on the back of the pad, copper grease on the backs of the pads etc with no change in noise whatsoever.

- The Brembo calliper is designed for maximum performance first and everything else second (including noise)

- My car has slotted/drilled rotors fitted front and rear - this makes the noise issue worse than it would otherwise be.

I'm in the process of buying a set of the Winmax pads for the front as they promise to be significantly quieter than the Ferodos I have now with only slightly less performance.

If they are a good thing as promised I'll keep the Ferodos for track days or if serious fanging is planned.

regards

Andrew

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Andrew;

- The Ferodo DS2500 is a noisy pad due the performance nature of it. I've tried making my own shims, stick on shims on the back of the pad, copper grease on the backs of the pads etc with no change in noise whatsoever.

Bugger. I was just about to try this.

- The Brembo calliper is designed for maximum performance first and everything else second (including noise)

Hmmm. I bet V Spec 32 GTRs, 33s and 34s don't squeal like this?

I'm in the process of buying a set of the Winmax pads for the front as they promise to be significantly quieter than the Ferodos I have now with only slightly less performance.

Please let us know how you get on.

Mark

Hi Andrew;

- The Ferodo DS2500 is a noisy pad due the performance nature of it. I've tried making my own shims, stick on shims on the back of the pad, copper grease on the backs of the pads etc with no change in noise whatsoever.

Bugger. I was just about to try this.

- The Brembo calliper is designed for maximum performance first and everything else second (including noise)

Hmmm. I bet V Spec 32 GTRs, 33s and 34s don't squeal like this?  

I'm in the process of buying a set of the Winmax pads for the front as they promise to be significantly quieter than the Ferodos I have now with only slightly less performance.  

Please let us know how you get on.  

Mark

Thanks for your post Mark,

R34 GTR V spec are the same callipers that I have on mine - no difference.

R32 and R33 V spec take the same pads but callipers are slightly different I'm told. Mine has the "gold" Brembos identical to the Track model Nissan 350Z. These have the different diameter pistons for the leading/trailing section of the pad which I don't know if the older models have??

Have ordered the Winmax pads from Bel Performance but unfortunately out of stock at present. Will definitely advise results once they are fitted. If they cure the noise they will be worth every cent!

Out of interest Bel are interested in the results also so we will all find out soon!

regards

Andrew

Hi Archie, have you tried the champher on the leading and trailing edges of the pad?  I haven't  ever used Ferodo DS2500's, but it works on Ultimates.

Yep - tried that. It definitely helps, but just delays the onset of the squealing. Once they are hot and at low brake pressures it starts again...!

Thnaks anyway.

regards

Andrew

personally i dont mind mine squeeling a bit, just a noise that comes from a performance pad! most near all race cars have squeeling brakes and everytime i hear them coming up to a corner i like the sound! i know the road car isn't a race car but we can dream :)

similar issues if you've got a triple plate clutch ............ she's gonna rattle at the lights!!!!

good luck with the efforts here!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...