Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone. Does anyone know for sure if there is a difference between R34 GTT manual & S2 C34 RS4S ECU wiring harnesses? Basically I have an Apexi Multichecker form my R32 days that I want to wire into my Stagea. Heaps of models are listed except for the C34. Any help or leads in the right direction would be appreciated!

I guessed that. What I'd really like to know is, do all the terminals at the plug, power/communicate with the same components (so hypethetically if I run my Stagea RWD only, can I plug an R34 GTT Ecu straight in with no problems) & are the wire colours the same for each wire between the two models??

What are you trying to do?

Given that an R34 PFC runs the Stagea fine barring traction control then there is no reason a GT-t ECU won't run a Stagea either in 2WD or 4WD form it doesn't make any difference.

What does it matter what colour the wires are?

In my original post I said I have a A'pexi Multichecker that I want to install in my Stagea, let me word it abit better. The C34 is not listed in the model list in the instruction manual, HOWEVER, the R34 is. Wiring colour helps, but what is really important is the functions of each pin of the ECU. Does the C34 operate EXACTLY the same as the R34? Just so I don't damage anything when wiring it up, I want to know for sure.

The ecu has the same pins and operates the same. The colours of the wires is anyone's guess but they were built at the same time so odds on the colours are the same.

Is there are reason you want to wire something in when there are other things out there like ecutalk (http://www.ecutalk.com) or just fit a Nistune plus licence and get all the data scanning you need.

Ok cool, thanks. Ecutalk & Nistune are great, Nistune is on the cards in the future, but I still have the multichecker & I want to use it. It gives read outs for speed (180km limiter removed as an option when wiring it in), RPM, AFR, Injector duty, AFM, Timing, Power, Torque, has peak logging for each & alarm for RPM set/shift point & maxed out AFM, injectors & lean AFR's. You can also tell it different wheel sizes, bigger injectors, AFM etc......

Its just a handy thing to have permantly postioned in the car to monitor afew critical signals. My R32 wasn't standard, so it was pretty useful. My Stagea is standard, but I want to get to know how the stock ECU runs so that when it does cop a Nistune I can clearly see the difference & compare them.......

Thanks for your help!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
    • I'm extremely suspicious of the VPP stuff. Best I can tell, you surrender any and all control of your panels and battery to the VPP, because there's no way that anyone could write a sufficiently useful set of "rules" as to how much you would be willing to let out of your export meter at any given time. If one of your main interests is to have enough in your battery every evening to get you through the night without having to import, you could easily find yourself with nothing in your battery at the end of the day, or part way through the night, and then be paying import pricing instead of paying nothing. I cannot see how this cannot come to pass.
    • majority aftermarket is an10 yes, but majority of OEM is An12 r35 OEM cooler lines at close to an 12, the hard line that car uses is almost 20mm  Porsche OEM is also AN12   i figure, if our power levels are close to 1000hp, then AN12 should be a must if many OEM standard power vehicles use AN12
×
×
  • Create New...