Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had my first minor incident last night. not my fault, was basically sitting at the lights and sum 18yo woman in her civic came up behind me and sumhow thought i was going and hit all the back of my car. ive only had the car for a month. it aint too bad just needs a new rear bar i think and a bit of a respray round the boot area and rear bar. good thing is she is gonna pay for it all neway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40514-got-my-first-shunt-last-night/
Share on other sites

I feel your pain, that's happened to me not once, but TWICE!! :rant: If the gap below your boot is a little larger than normal, you'll probably find that the beaver panel will be bent. Also check the outer edges of the taillight assemlies, they'll break their seal to the rear 3/4 guards if the middle of the car was hit hard enough. If they need to do panelwork and not just replace/repair the bar, expect the bill to come to around $1500. Not that it really matters cos you're not paying for it anyway :)

Sorry to hear it... Hope the damage isn't too serious.

Some advice for the future... If sitting on traffic light and seeing a car behind you coming up... dab your brake pedal a couple times and hold it... Your brake light might bring into the other driver's attention if he/she happens to be a little bit day dreaming or thinking you're moving.

yea it aint all to serious and she has called and said for me to take it to sum garage (which i cant remember the name of right now( in collingwood on friday. She is paying for it all so woteva needs to be fixed comes out of her pocket. But yea i have actually had water creeping into my rear right indicator, so that cant be a good thing............

i had my first minor incident last night. not my fault, was basically sitting at the lights and sum 18yo woman in her civic came up behind me and sumhow thought i was going and hit all the back of my car. ive only had the car for a month. it aint too bad just needs a new rear bar i think and a bit of a respray round the boot area and rear bar. good thing is she is gonna pay for it all neway.

That's fux0red dude..... same thing happened to me a few years ago in my 200sx (on Chapel st mind you :P) some d!cksnap in a clubsport wasn't looking in front of him... the traffic was moving very slowly, i braked because the car in front of me had stopped. This guy behind kept going and just tapped my D-Speed rear bar and cracked it, pushed the boot in a bit too.... the repair quote was over $3k. Silly me only took his mobile number, the guy tried to change mobile numbers on me to avoid paying, but i found out where he lived and called him at home.. he ended up going through insurance when he found out the cost. he was expecting it to be under 1 grand.... I said this isn't a commodore buddy, and I have a pearl paint job :)

I'd recommend Corso Body Works in South Melbourne.. Speak to Sam. They are authorised jaguar repairers and also do repairs for Shannons Insurance. Not the cheapest, but they definitely do a top job :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...