Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all, I'm considering selling my car as I am moving back to Sydney and won't have a garage or anywhere decent to keep it. This is a pretty devastating thing for me to do and I may pull out, so it is somewhat of an EOI.

This car is as immaculate as a factory paint car gets of a car this age, let alone a drift car. i bought it off a guy who has built many cover cars in his day with the build quality of this being any less Superior then any of his other creations.

This has $60k spent on it with ~$30k in receipts with most parts being less than 9,500kms old. The shell is bullshit, perfectly straight chassis rails the whole way through, uncrashed, unrepaired goodness. It has always been garaged and in 7 years of having the motor in, has done only 9500kms. I have done two tracks days up in Proserpine (one of which was spent fcking with my old handbrake) and one in Syd. The car has been meticulously maintained and I can honestly say that I have only hit limiter in it once or twice (due to fear of previous limiter bashing damage in one of my old SR20s). Anyway enough shit talking....

ENGINE:

R33 RB26DETT with 28,000 genuine km's on it.

Modified and Baffled GTR sump

N1 thermostat

N1 water pump

New Nissan timing belt

Custom performance metal craft 600x300x100 intercooler and plumbing

Oil cooler + remote filter relocator

Custom alloy radiator with remote filler tank

Trust type S BOV with alloy plumb back

Twin HKS filters

Twin custom ceramic coated dump pipes

Twin custom front pipes

3 inch stainless exhaust with stainless muffler and single angled 3” straight pipe outlet (super quiet for street creeping)

Battery relocated in boot

DRIVELINE:

r33 gtst 5 speed gearbox

Quick shift kit

Single piece tailshaft

Brass button clutch

GTR cradle with rebuilt GTR 2way

Rebuilt drive shafts

GTR brakes with vented/slotted rotors - front and rear (Rear uses drum handbrake also)

Brand new Project Mu ‘drift’ rear drum shoes

SUSPENSION:

Rear

New Drift project adjustable toe rods

New Drift project adjustable traction rods

JJR adjustable camber arms

Fresh noltech urethane bushes thoughout whole rear end, including subframe

D2 coilovers with 6kg/mm spring

Front

SMM (Simon Michellemore) knuckle and bolt in spacer setup (easily the best knuckle setup I've used)

New Ikeya Formula extended and strengthened tie rods

New Nissan tie rod ends

New rose jointed Castor rods

EXTERIOR:

Nismo Navan genuine plastic, front bar, side skirts and pods

Carbon fibre bonnet

JJR clear indicators and parkers

Boot holes deleted

HID lights

SSR 16” meshies

Front: 9” wide +18 offset with +20mm bolt on spacers

Rear: 9.5 wide with +18 offset

Rolled gaurds

Alloy wheel nuts

INTERIOR:

Pair of Recaro SR3 on recaro rails

Defi style gauge trio }

Eboost 2 }

Switches } All in carbon fibre panel

AF gauge setup }

Sony CD player moved to glove box to allow space for gauges and carbon panel

Razo carbon fibre gear knob, momo boot

Nardi wheel + horn

D2 detachable steering boss

HKB boss kit with resistor

Some White instruments with blue lights

Nissan floor mats

Alarm, immobiliser

New carpet

Car is fully and legitimately engineered in NSW (however it is a bit lower then legal)

IMG_0300.jpg

IMG_0284.jpg

IMG_0297.jpg

IMG_0295.jpg

522873_308330985912001_1925353046_n.jpg

375719_394835367201045_1580954680_n.jpg

576763_3547878529424_1935635479_n.jpg

Will try get some better pics up soon.

I’m sure there is a bunch of stuff I’ve left off and will update it as I remember.

Located in Mackay, but will be relocating it to wollongong in a few week.

Price: 20k

Cheers all,

Tye.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405312-s14-rb26-immaculate-has-everything/
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 years later...

Massive long shot however I’m trying to get into contact with previous owners, I currently own this car and the owner of the nissan dealership in my town owned for seven years before me, any info would be excellent ultimately my end goal is to find the person who built it. Thanks in advance 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/1/2020 at 9:59 AM, Wassell_97 said:

Massive long shot however I’m trying to get into contact with previous owners, I currently own this car and the owner of the nissan dealership in my town owned for seven years before me, any info would be excellent ultimately my end goal is to find the person who built it. Thanks in advance 

PM sent man. Try contacting Tyrone Hunt on Facebook? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...