Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello guys,

Ive recently inherited a free series one stagea RS4 with a Dead engine!

I wouldnt mind getting her on the road as a neat daily and having the 4 doors is a bit of an advantage over my R33.

She requires a new motor, I also have a non turbo R33 RWD RB25DE with relatively low kms that could be my donor engine ( instead of repairing/forking out for another non neo rb25 engine turbo).

I'm really considering running a RB25DE+T in rwd as an alternative to paying through the arse for another awd RB25det. The stag could use with the extra torque of the DE+T

Two things that I don't have info on, do the cv joints on the front hubs pre-load the wheel bearings at all?

Any issues with attesa by not having that front diff there and running it in rwd constantly.

Otherwise I imagine it should be a straight forward bolt up affair.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405340-rwd-rb25-engine-into-stagea/
Share on other sites

I would imagine that you would need to keep in AWD or do a bit of trickery on the ECU.

Front wheel bearings will require the end of the CV joints to be bolted in place as they do hold the wheel bearings together.

Whats stopping you from putting the DE in front of the AWD box? I dont believe there as any reason that you could not bolt them together

I would imagine that you would need to keep in AWD or do a bit of trickery on the ECU.

Front wheel bearings will require the end of the CV joints to be bolted in place as they do hold the wheel bearings together.

Whats stopping you from putting the DE in front of the AWD box? I dont believe there as any reason that you could not bolt them together

Yer a bit unsure, I am still on the lookout for a fair priced awd 25det thou I just happen to have a solid running rb25de.

Are you 100% on the wheel bearings?

if its got a perfectly good awd box why not hook up an engine... the earlier c34's just had a s2 r33 rb25det or DE with an auto from a GTS4 didnt they? which means you could run an NA GTS4 ecu if you didnt go turbo.. im only learning, someone will come with the answers haha, cos im not 100% sure on that info.

I don't think the 2wd block will go on the awd sump without an adapter plate and if you're going to get one of those you may as well do an RB30!!

In NZ the awd RB25DET go for about $1500 and the awd neo turbo for $2000. if you can get an engine aound that mark you will save yourself a lot of stuffing around. Or maybe you can revive the dead motor with a few $$ worth of second hand parts - how bad is it?

good point, didnt think about the sump not bolting up :D

and heres ur answer from another thread i found :D

No, the sump bolt patterns are different, you would need an adaptor plate (same as what they use for RB30 4WD conversions) - $1000 +

You really need to find a Stagea Rb25DET and that would drop straight in, with just a diff gear swap (if they are different)

woo i learnt somthing today haha.

Edited by OMY31T

Adapter plates used to be around $1k but now that they are more common the price has come down to about $300 - $400.

Here's one for $175:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-495138653.htm

Its not a simple bolt up job though there's some grinding and adaptation needed.

I don't think the 2wd block will go on the awd sump without an adapter plate and if you're going to get one of those you may as well do an RB30!!

In NZ the awd RB25DET go for about $1500 and the awd neo turbo for $2000. if you can get an engine aound that mark you will save yourself a lot of stuffing around. Or maybe you can revive the dead motor with a few $$ worth of second hand parts - how bad is it?

Thats right awd sump doesnt swap over. Still want to confirm for sure without pulling it apart if the front cv joints hold preload on the wheel bearings.

An engine for $1500 is certainly alot cheaper than a rebuild at this stage.

Still want to confirm for sure without pulling it apart if the front cv joints hold preload on the wheel bearings.

Without the CV shaft bolted through the middle of the wheel bearing; the hub will pull out of wheel bearing.

You could always pull apart a CV shaft & use the stub to hold the bearing together, or get an engineering shop to machine a stub using yours as a sample. It'll be pricey due to the spline though.

Without the CV shaft bolted through the middle of the wheel bearing; the hub will pull out of wheel bearing.

You could always pull apart a CV shaft & use the stub to hold the bearing together, or get an engineering shop to machine a stub using yours as a sample. It'll be pricey due to the spline though.

Was hoping there would be better news than having the cv shaft hold it together =[

Time to find a GTS4 engine or a well priced stagea engine.

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
×
×
  • Create New...